The Art of Perfumery by G. W. Septimus Piesse


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Page 22

MEADOW SWEET.--A sweet-smelling otto can be produced by
distilling the _Spir�a ulmaria_, but it is not used by perfumers.

MELISSA. See BALM.

MIGNONETTE.--But for the exquisite odor of this little flower,
it would scarcely be known otherwise than as a weed. Sweet as it is in
its natural state, and prolific in odor, we are not able to maintain its
characteristic smell as an essence. Like many others, during separation
from the plant, the fragrance is more or less modified; though not
perfect, it still reminds the sense of the odor of the flowers. To give
it that sweetness which it appears to want, a certain quantity of
violet is added to bring it up to the market odor.

As this plant is so very prolific in odor, we think something might be
done with it in England, especially as it flourishes as well in this
country as in France; and we desire to see Flower Farms and organized
Perfumatories established in the British Isles, for the extraction of
essences and the manufacture of pomade and oils, of such flowers as are
indigenous, or that thrive in the open fields of our country. Besides
opening up a new field of enterprise and good investment for capital, it
would give healthy employment to many women and children. Open air
employment for the young is of no little consideration to maintain the
stamina of the future generation; for it cannot be denied that our
factory system and confined cities are prejudicial to the physical
condition of the human family.

To return from our digression. The essence of mignonette, or, as it is
more often sold under the name of Extrait de R�z�da, is prepared by
infusing the r�z�da pomade in rectified spirit, in the proportion of one
pound of pomade to one pint of spirit, allowing them to digest together
for a fortnight, when the essence is filtered off the pomade. One ounce
of extrait d'ambr� is added to every pint. This is done to give
permanence to the odor upon the handkerchief, and does not in any way
alter its odor.

MIRIBANE.--The French name for artificial essence of almond
(see ALMOND).

MINT.--All the _Menthid�_ yield fragrant ottos by
distillation. The otto of the spear-mint (_M. viridis_) is exceedingly
powerful, and very valuable for perfuming soap, in conjunction with
other perfumes. Perfumers use the ottos of the mint in the manufacture
of mouth-washes and dental liquids. The leading ingredient in the
celebrated "eau Botot" is oil of peppermint in alcohol. A good imitation
may be made thus:--

EAU DE BOTOT.

Tincture of cedar wood, 1 pint.
" myrrh, 1 oz.
Oil of peppermint, 1/2 dr.
" spear mint, 1/4 dr.
" cloves, 10 drops.
" roses, 10 "

Modifications of this formula can be readily suggested, but the main
object is to retain the mint ottos, as they have more power than any
other aromatic to overcome the smell of tobacco. Mouth-washes, it must
be remembered, are as much used for rinsing the mouth after smoking as
for a dentifrice.

MYRTLE.--A very fragrant otto may be procured by distilling
both flowers and leaves of the common myrtle; one hundred-weight will
yield about five ounces of the volatile oil. The demand for essence of
myrtle being very limited, the odor as found in the perfumers' shops is
very rarely a genuine article, but it is imitated thus:--

IMITATION ESSENCE OF MYRTLE.

Extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint.
" roses 1 "
Extract of fleur d'orange, 1/2 pint.
" tubereuse, 1/2 "
" jasmine, 2 oz.

Mix and allow to stand for a fortnight: it is then fit for bottling, and
is a perfume that gives a great deal of satisfaction.

Myrtle-flower water is sold in France under the name of eau d'ange, and
may be prepared like rose, elder, or other flower waters.

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