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Page 21
Perhaps it is not out of place here to remark, that in attempts to
discover the composition of certain perfumes, we are greatly assisted by
the use of strong Liq. Ammoni�. Certain of the essential oils combining
with the Ammonia, allow those which do not do so, if present in the
compound, to be smelt.
LEMON GRASS.--According to Pereira, the otto in the market
under this name is derived from the _Andropogon schoenanthus_ a
species of grass which grows abundantly in India. It is cultivated to a
large extent in Ceylon and in the Moluccas purposely for the otto, which
from the plant is easily procured by distillation. Lemon grass otto, or,
as it is sometimes called, oil of verbena, on account of its similarity
of odor to that favorite plant, is imported into this country in old
English porter and stout bottles. It is very powerful, well adapted for
perfuming soaps and greases, but its principal consumption is in the
manufacture of artificial essence of verbena. From its comparatively low
price, great strength, and fine perfume (when diluted), the lemon grass
otto may be much more used than at present, with considerable advantage
to the retail shopkeeper.
LILAC.--The fragrance of the flowers of this ornamental shrub
is well known. The essence of lilac is obtained either by the process of
maceration, or enfleurage with grease, and afterwards treating the
pomatum thus formed with rectified spirit, in the same manner as
previously described for cassie; the odor so much resembles tubereuse,
as to be frequently used to adulterate the latter, the demand for
tubereuse being at all times greater than the supply. A beautiful
IMITATION OF ESSENCE OF WHITE LILAC may be compounded thus:--
Spirituous extract from tubereuse pomade, 1 pint.
" of orange-flower pomade, 1/4 "
Otto of almonds, 3 drops.
Extract of civet, 1/2 oz.
The civet is only used to give permanence to the perfume of the
handkerchief.
LILY.--The manufacturing perfumer rejects the advice of the
inspired writer, to "consider the lilies of the field." Rich as they are
in odor, they are not cultivated for their perfume. If lilies are thrown
into oil of sweet almonds, or ben oil, they impart to it their sweet
smell; but to obtain anything like fragrance, the infusion must be
repeated a dozen times with the same oil, using fresh flowers for each
infusion, after standing a day or so. The oil being shaken with an equal
quantity of spirit for a week, gives up its odor to the alcohol, and
thus extract of lilies _may_ be made. But how it _is_ made is thus:--
IMITATION "LILY OF THE VALLEY."
Extract of tubereuse, 1/2 pint.
" jasmine, 1 oz.
" fleur d'orange, 2 oz.
" vanilla, 3 oz.
" cassie, 1/4 pint.
" rose, 1/4 "
Otto of almonds, 3 drops.
Keep this mixture together for a month, and then bottle it for sale. It
is a perfume that is very much admired.
MACE.--Ground mace is used in the manufacture of some of those
scented powders called Sachets. A strong-smelling essential oil may be
procured from it by distillation, but it is rarely used.
MAGNOLIA.--The perfume of this flower is superb; practically,
however, it is of little use to the manufacturer, the large size of the
blossoms and their comparative scarcity prevents their being used, but a
very excellent imitation of its odor is made as under, and is that which
is found in the perfumers' shops of London and Paris.
IMITATION "ESSENCE OF MAGNOLIA."
Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum, 1 pint.
" " rose pomatum, 2 pints.
" " tubereuse pomatum, 1/2 pint.
" " violet pomatum, 1/2 "
Essential oil of citron, 3 drs.
" " almonds, 10 drops.
MARJORAM.--The otto procured by distilling _Origanum majorana_,
commonly called oil of oringeat by the French, is exceedingly powerful,
and in this respect resembles all the ottos from the different species
of thyme, of which the marjoram is one. One hundred weight of the dry
herb yields about ten ounces of the otto. Oringeat oil is extensively
used for perfuming soap, but more in France than in England. It is the
chief ingredient used by Gelle Fr�res, of Paris, for scenting their
"Tablet Monstre Soap," so common in the London shops.
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