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Page 23
NEROLI, OR ORANGE-FLOWER.--Two distinct odors are procurable
from the orange-blossom, varying according to the methods adopted for
procuring them. This difference of perfume from the same flower is a
great advantage to the manufacturer. This curious fact is worthy of
inquiry by the chemical philosopher. It is not peculiar to the
orange-flower, but applies to many others, especially rose--probably to
all flowers.
When orange-flowers are treated by the maceration process, that is, by
infusion in a fatty body, we procure orange-flower pomatum, its strength
and quality being regulated by the number of infusions of the flower
made in the same grease.
By digesting this orange-flower pomatum in rectified spirits in the
proportions of from six pounds to eight pounds of pomade to a gallon of
spirit, for about a fortnight at a summer heat, we obtain the extrait de
fleur d'orange, or extract of orange-flowers, a handkerchief perfume
surpassed by none. In this state its odor resembles the original so
much, that with closed eyes the best judge could not distinguish the
scent of the extract from that of the flower. The peculiar flowery odor
of this extract renders it valuable to perfumers, not only to sell in a
pure state, but slightly modified with other _extraits_ passes for
"sweet pea," "magnolia," &c., which it slightly resembles in fragrance.
[Illustration: Orange.]
Now, when orange-flowers are distilled with water, we procure the otto
of the blossom, which is known commercially as oil of neroli. The neroli
procured from the flowers of the Citrus aurantium is considered to be
the finest quality, and is called "neroli petale." The next quality,
"neroli bigarade," is derived from the blossoms of the _Citrus
bigaradia_, or Seville orange. Another quality, which is considered
inferior to the preceding, is the neroli petit grain, obtained by
distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the different
species of the citrus.
The "petale" and "bigarade" neroli are used to an enormous extent in the
manufacture of eau de Cologne and other handkerchief perfumes. The petit
grain is mainly consumed for scenting soap. To form the esprit de
neroli, dissolve 1-1/2 oz. of neroli petale in one gallon of rectified
spirits. Although very agreeable, and extensively used in the
manufacture of bouquets, it has no relation to the flowery odor of the
extrait de fleur d'orange, as derived from the same flowers by
maceration; in fact, it has as different an odor as though obtained from
another plant, yet in theory both these _extraits_ are but alcoholic
solutions of the otto of the flower.
The water used for distillation in procuring the neroli, when well freed
from the oil, is imported into this country under the name of eau de
fleur d'orange, and may be used, like elder-flower and rose-water, for
the skin, and as an eye lotion. It is remarkable for its fine fragrance,
and it is astonishing that it is not more used, being moderate in price.
(See _Syringa_.)
NUTMEG.--The beautiful odor of the nutmeg is familiar to all.
Though an otto can be drawn from them of a very fragrant character, it
is rarely used in perfumery. The ground nuts are, however, used
advantageously in the combinations of scented powders used for scent
bags.--See "Sachet's Powders."
OLIBANUM is a gum resin, used to a limited extent in this
country, in the manufacture of incense and pastilles. It is chiefly
interesting as being one of those odoriferous bodies of which frequent
mention is made in the Holy volume.[C]
"It is believed," says Burnett, "to have been one of the ingredients in
the sweet incense of the Jews; and it is still burnt as incense in the
Greek and Romish churches, where the diffusion of such odors round the
altar forms a part of the prescribed religious service."
Olibanum is partially soluble in alcohol, and, like most of the balsams,
probably owes its perfume to a peculiar odoriferous body, associated
with the benzoic acid it contains.
For making the tincture or extract of olibanum, take 1 pound of the gum
to 1 gallon of the spirit.
ORANGE.--Under the title "Neroli" we have already spoken of the
odoriferous principle of the orange-blossom. We have now to speak of
what is known in the market as Essence of Orange, or, as it is more
frequently termed, Essence of Portugal,--a name, however, which we
cannot admit in a classified list of the "odors of plants."
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