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Page 10
SECTION IV.
THE ENAMELLING AND JAPANNING STOVE--PIGMENTS SUITABLE FOR JAPANNING
WITH NATURAL LACQUER--MODERN METHODS OF JAPANNING WITH NATURAL
JAPANESE LACQUER.
APPLIANCES AND APPARATUS USED IN JAPANNING AND ENAMELLING.
Besides the various enamels or japans and varnishes of various
colourings and the stove, which will be found described and
illustrated, together with the trough, in other pages, the worker will
need some iron pots or cauldrons in which to boil the potash "lye" for
the cleansing, more particularly, of old work, some iron ladles both
for this work and for pouring the japan on the articles to be covered
therewith, a few badger tools and brushes for small fine work, some
hooks for the stove, a pair of pliers, a few bits of broom handle cut
into short lengths and made taper, so as to fit into the tubes, etc.,
of bicycles and other work, so as to keep the hands as free from the
japan as possible, some emery powder, pumice-stone powder, tripoli,
putty powder, whiting, and a piece of felt or cloth. If he is also
doing any common work, a stumpy brush of bristles and a soft leather
will also be requisite, together with a file or two. These will about
comprise the whole of the articles required, not very expensive, all
of which will really not be required by a beginner.
Owing largely to the strides made in the cycle trade enamelling is
stoved by means of gas, and of this a plentiful supply is necessary.
Enamelling stoves may really be described as hot-air cupboards or
ovens, and for a stove which will answer most requirements--say one of
6 feet by 6 feet by 3-1/2 feet--six rows of atmospheric burners will
be necessary to heat it, while it will be also advisable to fix pipes
of 1-1/4 inch internal diameter from the gas meter to the stove. The
atmospheric burners can be made from the requisite number of pieces of
1-1/4-inch gas tube 3-1/2 feet in length, one end of each being
stopped, and having 1/3-inch holes drilled therein at intervals of
about 1 inch, the other end being left open for the insertion of
ordinary 3/8-inch brass gas taps. Another plan preferred by some
japanners is to have three rows of burners the full length of the
stove, which, under some circumstances, due to structural conditions,
will be found more suitable. Anyway, whatever the position of the
stove, allowance must be made for a temperature up to 400� F. to be
raised. In old-fashioned ovens the heat is applied by means of
external flues, in which hot air or steam is circulated, but this
system is generally unsatisfactory, the supply of heat having to be
controlled by dampers or stop-cocks, and this has given place to the
gas apparatus. Another simple form of oven, though not one which I
shall recommend, is a species of sheet-iron box, which is encased by
another and larger box of the same shape, so placed that from 2 to 3
inches of interspace exists between the two boxes. To this interspace
heat is applied, and a flue will have to be affixed to this apparatus
to carry off the vapours which arise from the enamel or japan. For
amateur or intermittent jobbing work the oven illustrated in Figs. 2
and 3 is about as good as any, though to guard against fire it would
be as well to have a course of brickwork beneath the oven, while if
this is not possible on account of want of height, a sheet or so of
zinc or iron will help to mitigate the danger. It is also advisable,
if the apartment is a low-pitched one, to have a sheet of iron or zinc
suspended by four corner chains from the ceiling in order to protect
this from firing through the heat from the enamelling oven. Of course,
it will be understood that every portion of the stove must be put
together with rivets, no soldered work being permissible.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.--Door of Oven when Shut.]
To those who wish to construct their own stove, it will be found that
the framework can be shaped out of 1-inch angle iron, the panels or
walls being constructed of sheet-iron of about 18 gauge, the whole
being riveted together. The front will be occupied in its entire space
by a door, which will require to be hung on strong iron hinges, and
the framework of this door should be constructed of 1 inch by 1/4 inch
iron--a rather stouter material will really be no disadvantage--to
which the sheet-iron plates must be riveted. In the centre of the door
must be cut a slit, say 1-1/2 inches by 9 inches, which will require
to be covered with mica or talc behind which must be placed the
thermometer, so as it can be seen during the process of stoving,
without the necessity of opening the door, which, of course, more or
less cools the oven. And, by the way, this thermometer must register
higher than the highest temperature the oven is capable of reaching.
Above is shown a sketch of the stove, interior and exterior, which
will give an idea of what a japanner's stove is like.
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