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Page 9
At Fig. 1 is shown a trough in which large pieces, such as bedsteads,
bicycle frames, etc., are dipped or immersed. For the first-mentioned
class of work such high finish is not required as for bicycles, and
consequently the enamel need not be applied with a brush, nor will it
be necessary to rub down the work between each coat, but instead the
pieces can be literally dipped in the tank of liquid, then allowed to
drain on to the dripping-board--the superfluous enamel thus finding
its way back into the trough or tank, the dripped articles being
afterwards placed in the oven to harden. The trough must be of
sufficient dimensions to allow the pieces of work to be completely
immersed, and the dripping-board should be set at an angle of about
45�.
Bedstead frames will never require more than two coats and the
commoner class of goods only one. I would not advise the tradesman in
a small way of business to go to the expense of a trough, etc., as it
calls for much more room than is ordinarily available, but if he has
the necessary plant for bicycle work he can, of course, do an
occasional job of the other kind.
JAPANNING TIN, SUCH AS TEA-TRAYS AND SIMILAR GOODS.
For japanning sheet-iron articles, which are really tin goods, such as
tea-trays and similar things, first scour them well with a piece of
sandstone, which will effectually remove all the scales and make the
surface quite smooth. Then give the metal a coating of vegetable
black, which must be mixed with super black japan varnish, thinned
with turps, and well strained. Only a small quantity of this varnish
is necessary, as it will dry dead. The article must then be placed in
the stove to harden at a temperature of 212� F., there to remain for
from ten to twelve hours. When taken out of the stove, the articles
must be allowed to get cold, after which they must be given a coat of
super black japan, which, if necessary, must be thinned with turps, a
stiff, short bristle brush being employed, and the varnish put on
sparingly, so that it will not "run" when it gets warm. Two coats of
this varnish on top of the vegetable black coating are usually
sufficient, when done properly, but a third coating much improves the
work, and from ten to twelve hours' hardening will be necessary
between each coating. The small lumps which will be more or less
certain to arise will require to be rubbed down between each
application by a small and smooth piece of pumice-stone.
If it is desired to add gold or bronze bands or any kind of floral or
other kind of fancy decorations, these are painted on, after the
ground japanning has been done, in japanners' gold size, and then the
gold leaf is applied, or the bronze or other metal powder is dusted
on, after which the objects so treated are again placed in the stove,
where they will not require to be kept near so long as for ordinary
japanning. After they have been removed, the gilt or bronzed portions
must be treated with a protecting coat of white spirit varnish.
Transfers can be applied in the same way.
Tinned iron goods are the most largely japanned, and for these brown
and black colours are principally employed. Both are obtained by the
use of brown japan, the metal having a preliminary coating of black
paint when black is required. Only one coating of brown japan is given
to cheap goods, but for better articles two or more are applied. For
these it is possible that a final dressing with pumice-stone, then
with rotten-stone, and rubbed with a piece of felt or cloth, or even
the palm of the hand, may be necessary, but as a rule not.
Large numbers of articles of the above description, such as tea-trays,
tea-canisters, cash-boxes, coal-boxes, and similar goods, are japanned
at Birmingham, and it is to such that the preceding instructions
apply.
ENAMELLING OLD WORK.
In all cases of re-enamelling old work, it is absolutely necessary to
remove all traces of the first enamelling, and if this has been well
done in the first instance, it will prove no mean job. The best way to
clean the work is to soak it in a strong "lye" of hot potash, when the
softened enamel can be wiped or brushed off--this latter method being
pursued in the more intricate and ungetatable portions of the work.
New work, which has not been enamelled, can be treated in the same way
for the removal of all grease, stains, finger-marks, etc., and too
much attention cannot be paid to the initial preparation of the
surface of the metal, to have it thoroughly even and smooth, as it
adds so much to the ultimate finish and appearance of the work. Plenty
of labour must be bestowed before the final coat, as any blemish will
show through this finishing, and so mar what would otherwise be a
highly satisfactory bit of work. In all kinds of bicycle work, whether
new or old, the most satisfactory results are obtained by the
application of at least two, and sometimes four or five, successive
coats of good but thin enamel, as this will impart the necessary
perfect coat, combined with durability, a high finish, and a good
colour. A good enamel should be sufficiently hard, so as not to be
scratched on the merest touch or rubbing. It will, of course, be
understood that no solder-work must be put into the stove, or the
pieces will separate. Should any of this work be discovered, the
pieces must be taken apart, and then brazed together before being
enamelled, and put in the stove.
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