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Page 71
ACACIA POMADE, commonly called CASSIE POMATUM, is made
with a purified body-grease, by maceration with the little round yellow
buds of the _Acacia Farnesiana_.
Black currant leaves, and which the French term _cassie_, have an odor
very much resembling cassie (acacia), and are used extensively for
adulterating the true acacia pomades and oils. The near similarity of
name, their analogous odor (although the plants have no botanical
connection), together with the word _cassia_, a familiar perfume in
England, has produced generally confused ideas in this country as to the
true origin of the odor now under discussion. Cassie, casse, cassia, it
will be understood now, are three distinct substances; and in order to
render the matter more perspicuous in future, the materials will always
be denominated ACACIA, if prepared from the _Acacia
Farnesiana_; CASSE, when from _black currant_; and
CASSIA, if derived from the bark of the _Cinnamomum Cassia_.
BENZOIN POMADE AND OIL.
Benzoic acid is perfectly soluble in hot grease. Half an ounce of
benzoic acid being dissolved in half a pint of hot olive or almond oil,
deposits on cooling beautiful acicular crystals, similar to the crystals
that effloresce from vanilla beans; a portion of the acid, however,
remains dissolved in the oil at the ordinary temperature, and imparts to
it the peculiar aroma of benzoin; upon this idea is based the principle
of perfuming grease with gum benzoin by the direct process, that is, by
macerating powdered gum benzoin in melted suet or lard for a few hours,
at a temperature of about 80� C. to 90� C. Nearly all the gum-resins
give up their odoriferous principle to fatty bodies, when treated in the
same way; this fact becoming generally known, will probably give rise to
the preparation of some new remedial ointments, such as _Unguentum
myrrh�_, _Unguentum assafoetida_, and the like.
TONQUIN POMADE, and TONQUIN OIL, are prepared by
macerating the ground Tonquin beans in either melted fat or warm oil,
from twelve to twenty-eight hours, in the proportion of
Tonquin beans, 1/2 lb.
Fat or oil, 4 lbs.
Strain through fine muslin; when cold, the grease will have a fine odor
of the beans.
VANILLA OIL AND POMADE.
Vanilla pods, 1/4 lb.
Fat or oil, 4 lbs.
Macerate at a temperature of 25� C. for three or four days; finally
strain.
These pomatums and oils, together with the French pomades and huiles
already described, constitute the foundation of the preparations of all
the best hair greases sold by perfumers. Inferior scented pomatums and
oils are prepared by perfuming lard, suet, wax, oil, &c., with various
ottos; the results, however, in many instances more expensive than the
foregoing, are actually inferior in their odor or bouquet--for grease,
however slightly perfumed by maceration or enfleurage with flowers, is
far more agreeable to the olfactory nerve than when scented by ottos.
The undermentioned greases have obtained great popularity, mainly
because their perfume is lasting and flowery.
POMADE CALLED BEAR'S GREASE.
The most popular and "original" bears' grease is made thus:--
Huile de rose, }
" fleur d'orange, }
" acacia, } of each, 1/2 lb.
" tubereuse and jasmin,}
Almond oil, 10 lbs.
Lard, 12 lbs.
Acacia pomade, 2 lbs.
Otto of bergamot, 4 oz.
" cloves, 2 oz.
Melt the solid greases and oils together by a water-bath,
then add the ottos.
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