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Page 70
According to a recipe published more than a century ago the form given
is:--"Kid's grease, an orange sliced, pippins, a glass of rose-water,
and half a glass of white wine, boiled and strained, and at last
sprinkled with oil of sweet almonds." The author, Dr. Quincy, observes,
that "the apple is of no significance at all in the recipe," and, like
many authors of the present day, concludes that the reader is as well
acquainted with the subject as the writer, and therefore considers that
the weights or bulk of the materials in his recipe are, likewise, of no
significance. According to ancient writers, unguent, pomatum, ointment,
are synonymous titles for medicated and perfumed greases. Among biblical
interpreters, the significant word is mostly rendered "ointment;" thus
we have in Prov. 27:9, "Ointment and perfume rejoice the heart;" in
Eccles. 9:8, "Let thy head lack no ointment."
Perfumers, acting upon their own or Dr. Quincy's advice, pay no regard
to the apples in the preparation of pomatum, but make it by perfuming
lard or suet, or a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and oil, or some of them
or all blended, to produce a particular result, according to the name
that it bears.
The most important thing to consider in the manufacture of pomatum, &c.,
is to start off with a _perfectly inodorous_ grease, whatever that
grease may be.
Inodorous lard is obtained thus:--Take, say 28 lbs. of _perfectly fresh_
lard, place it in a well-glazed vessel, that can be submitted to the
heat of a boiling salt-water bath, or by steam under a slight pressure;
when the lard is melted, add to it one ounce of powdered alum and two
ounces of table salt; maintain the heat for some time, in fact till a
scum rises, consisting in a great measure of coagulated proteine
compounds, membrane, &c., which must be skimmed off; when the liquid
grease appears of a uniform nature it is allowed to grow cold.
The lard is now to be washed. This is done in small portions at a time,
and is a work of much labor, which, however, is amply repaid by the
result. About a pound of the grease is now placed on a slate slab a
little on the incline, a supply of good water being set to trickle over
it; the surface of the grease is then constantly renewed by an operative
working a muller over it, precisely as a color-maker grinds paints in
oil. In this way the water removes any traces of alum or salt, also the
last traces of nitrogenous matter. Finally, the grease, when the whole
is washed in this way, is remelted, the heat being maintained enough to
drive off any adhering water. When cold it is finished.
Although purifying grease in this way is troublesome, and takes a good
deal of time, yet unless done so, it is totally unfit for perfuming with
flowers, because a bad grease will cost more in perfume to cover its
_mal odeur_ than the expense of thus deodorizing it. Moreover, if lard
be used that "smells of the pig," it is next to impossible to impart to
it any delicate odor; and if strongly perfumed by the addition of ottos,
the unpurified grease will not keep, but quickly becomes rancid. Under
any circumstances, therefore, grease that is not _perfectly inodorous_
is a very expensive material to use in the manufacture of pomades.
In the South and flower-growing countries, where the fine pomades are
made by ENFLEURAGE, or by MACERATION[G] (see pp. 37,
38), the purification of grease for the purpose of these manufactures is
of sufficient importance to become a separate trade.
The purification of beef and mutton suet is in a great measure the same
as that for lard: the greater solidity of suets requires a mechanical
arrangement for washing them of a more powerful nature than can be
applied by hand labor. Mr. Ewen, who is undoubtedly the best
fat-purifier in London, employs a stone roller rotating upon a circular
slab; motion is given to the roller by an axle which passes through the
centre of the slab, or rather stone bed, upon which the suet is placed;
being higher in the centre than at the sides, the stream of water flows
away after it has once passed over the suet; in other respects the
treatment is the same as for lard. These greases used by perfumers have
a general title of "body," tantamount to the French nomenclature of
_corps_; thus we have pomades of hard corps (suet), pomades of soft
corps (lard). For making _extraits_, such as extrait de violette,
jasmin, the pomades of hard corps are to be preferred; but when scented
pomade is to be used in fabrication of unguents for the hair, pomades of
soft corps are the most useful.
The method of perfuming grease by the direct process with flowers having
already been described under the respective names of the flowers that
impart the odor thereto, it remains now only to describe those compounds
that are made from them, together with such incidental matter connected
with this branch of perfumery as has not been previously mentioned.
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