The Art of Perfumery by G. W. Septimus Piesse


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Page 68

This is an elegant and economical preparation, generally admired.

TUBEREUSE, JASMINE, AND FLEUR D'ORANGE COLD CREAMS.

Are prepared in similar manner to violet (first form); they are all very
exquisite preparations, but as they _cost_ more than rose cold cream,
perfumers are not much inclined to introduce them in lieu of the latter.

CAMPHOR COLD CREAM. (_Otherwise Camphor Ice_.)

Almond oil, 1 lb.
Rose-water, 1 lb.
Wax and Spermaceti, 1 oz.
Camphor, 2 oz.
Otto of rosemary, 1 drachm.

Melt the camphor, wax, and sperm, in the oil, then manipulate as for
cold cream of roses.

CUCUMBER COLD CREAM. (_Cr�me de Concombre_.)

Almond oil, 1 lb.
Green oil, 1 oz.
Juice of cucumber, 1 lb.
Wax and sperm, each, 1 oz.
Otto of neroli, 1/4 drachm.

The cucumber juice is readily obtained by subjecting the fruit to
pressure in the ordinary tincture press. It must be raised to a
temperature high enough to coagulate the small portion of albumen which
it contains, and then strained through fine linen, as the heat is
detrimental to the odor on account of the great volatility of the otto
of cucumber. The following method may be adopted with advantage:--Slice
the fruit very fine with a cucumber-cutter, and place them in the oil;
after remaining together for twenty-four hours, repeat the operation,
using fresh fruit in the strained oil; no warmth is necessary, or at
most, not more than a summer heat; then proceed to make the cold cream
in the usual manner, using the almond oil thus odorized, the rose-water,
and other ingredients in the regular way, perfuming, if necessary, with
a little neroli.

Another and commoner preparation of cucumber is found among the
Parisians, which is lard simply scented with the juice from the fruit,
thus:--The lard is liquefied by heat in a vessel subject to a
water-bath; the cucumber juice is then stirred well into it; the vessel
containing the ingredients is now placed in a quiet situation to cool.
The lard will rise to the surface, and when cold must be removed from
the fluid juice; the same manipulation being repeated as often as
required, according to the strength of odor of the fruit desired in the
grease.

PIVERS' POMADE OF CUCUMBER.

Benzoinated lard, 6 lbs.
Spermaceti, 2 lbs.
Essence of cucumbers, 1 lb.

Melt the stearine with the lard, then keep it constantly in motion while
it cools, now beat the grease in a mortar, gradually adding the essence
of cucumbers; continue to beat the whole until the spirit is evaporated,
and the pomade is beautifully white.

_Melons_ and other similar fruit will scent grease treated in the same
way. (See "Essence of Cucumbers," p. 204.)

POMADE DIVINE.

Among the thousand and one quack nostrums, pomade divine, like James's
powder, has obtained a reputation far above the most sanguine
expectations of its concoctors. This article strictly belongs to the
druggist, being sold as a remedial agent; nevertheless, what _is_ sold
is almost always vended by the perfumer. It is prepared thus:--

Spermaceti, 1/4 lb.
Lard, 1/2 lb.
Almond oil, 3/4 lb.
Gum benzoin, 1/4 lb.
Vanilla beans, 1-1/2 oz.

Digest the whole in a vessel heated by a water-bath at a temperature not
exceeding 90� C. After five or six hours it is fit to strain, and may be
poured into the bottles for sale. (Must be _stamped_ if its medicinal
qualities are stated.)

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Books | Photos | Paul Mutton | Thu 25th Dec 2025, 2:32