The Art of Perfumery by G. W. Septimus Piesse


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Page 67




SECTION XI.

COLD CREAM.


GALEN, the celebrated physician of Pergamos, in Asia, but who
distinguished himself at Athens, Alexandria, and Rome, about 1700 years
ago, was the inventor of that peculiar unguent, a mixture of grease and
water, which is now distinguished as cold cream in perfumery, and as
_Ceratum Galeni_ in Pharmacy.

The modern formula for cold cream is, however, quite a different thing
to that given in the works of Galen in point of odor and quality,
although substantially the same--grease and water. In perfumery there
are several kinds of cold cream, distinguished by their odor, such as
that of camphor, almond, violet, roses, &c. Cold cream, as made by
English perfumers, bears a high reputation, not only at home, but
throughout Europe; the quantity exported, and which can only be reckoned
by jars in hundreds of dozens, and the repeated announcements that may
be seen in the shops on the Continent, in Germany, France, and Italy, of
"Cold Cr�me Anglaise," is good proof of the estimation in which it is
held.

ROSE COLD CREAM.

Almond oil, 1 lb.
Rose-water, 1 lb.
White wax, }
spermaceti, } each, 1 oz.
Otto of roses, 1/2 drachm.

_Manipulation_.--Into a well-glazed thick porcelain vessel, which
should be deep in preference to shallow, and capable of holding twice
the quantity of cream that is to be made, place the wax and sperm; now
put the jar into a boiling bath of water; when these materials are
melted, add the oil, and again subject the whole to heat until the
flocks of wax and sperm are liquefied; now remove the jar and contents,
and set it under a runner containing the rose-water: the runner may be a
tin can, with a small tap at the bottom, the same as used for the
manufacture of milk of roses. A stirrer must be provided, made of
lancewood, flat, and perforated with holes the size of a sixpence,
resembling in form a large palette-knife. As soon as the rose-water is
set running, the cream must be kept agitated until the whole of the
water has passed into it; now and then the flow of water must be
stopped, and the cream which sets at the sides of the jar scraped down,
and incorporated with that which remains fluid. When the whole of the
water has been incorporated, the cream will be cool enough to pour into
the jars for sale; at that time the otto of rose is to be added. The
reason for the perfume being put in at the last moment is obvious--the
heat and subsequent agitation would cause unnecessary loss by
evaporation. Cold cream made in this way sets quite firmly in the jars
into which it is poured, and retains "a face" resembling pure wax,
although one-half is water retained in the interstices of the cream.
When the pots are well glazed, it will keep good for one or two years.
If desired for exportation to the East or West Indies, it should always
be sent out in stoppered bottles.

COLD CREAM OF ALMONDS

Is prepared precisely as the above; but in place of otto of roses otto
of almonds is used.

VIOLET COLD CREAM.

Huile violette, 1 lb.
Rose-water, 1 lb.
Wax and spermaceti, each, 1 oz.
Otto of almonds, 5 drops.

VIOLET COLD CREAM. IMITATION.

Almond oil, 3/4 lb.
Huile cassie, 1/4 lb.
Rose-water, 1 lb.
Sperm and wax, 1 oz.
Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm.

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Books | Photos | Paul Mutton | Thu 25th Dec 2025, 0:18