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Page 43
EMPRESS EUGENIE'S NOSEGAY.
Extract of musk, }
" vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint.
" tonquin, }
" neroli, }
" geranium, }
" rose triple, } of each, 1/2 "
" santal, }
ESTERHAZY BOUQUET.
Extrait de fleur d'orange (from pomade), 1 pint.
Esprit de rose triple, 1 "
Extract of vitivert, }
" vanilla, } of each, 2 "
" orris, }
" tonquin, }
Esprit de neroli, 1 "
Extract of ambergris, 1/2 "
Otto of santal, 1/2 drachm.
" cloves, 1/2 "
Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it is the vitivert that
gives this bouquet its peculiar character. Few perfumes have excited
greater _furor_ while in fashion.
ESS BOUQUET.
The reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous imitations of
the original article, more particularly on the continent. In many of the
shops in Germany and in France will be seen bottles labelled in close
imitation of those sent out by Bayley and Co., Cockspur Street, London,
who are, in truth, the original makers.
Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint.
Extract of ambergris, 2 oz.
" orris, 8 "
Otto of lemons, 1/4 "
" bergamot, 1 "
The name "Ess" bouquet, which appears to puzzle some folk, is but a mere
contraction of "essence" of bouquet.
EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La premi�re qualit�._)
Spirit (from grape), 60 over proof, 6 gallons.
Otto of neroli, _Petale_, 3 oz.
" " _Bigarade_, 1 "
" rosemary, 2 "
" orange-peel, 5 "
" citron-peel, 5 "
" bergamot-peel, 2 "
Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly
quiet, before bottling.
EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La deuxi�me qualit�._)
Spirit (from corn), 6 gallons.
Otto of neroli, _Petit-grain_, 2 oz.
" " _Petale_, 1/2 "
" rosemary, 2 "
" orange-peel, }
" lemon, } of each, 4 "
" bergamot, }
Although Eau de Cologne was originally introduced to the public as a
sort of "cure-all," a regular "elixir of life," it now takes its place,
not as a pharmaceutical product, but among perfumery. Of its remedial
qualities we can say nothing, such matter being irrelevant to the
purpose of this book. Considered, however, as a perfume, with the public
taste it ranks very high; and although it is exceedingly volatile and
evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality which is called
"refreshing." Whether this be due to the rosemary or to the spirit, we
cannot say, but think something may be attributed to both. One important
thing relating to Eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed, and
that is, the quality of the spirit used in its manufacture. The utter
impossibility of making brandy with English spirit in any way to
resemble the real Cognac, is well known. It is equally impossible to
make Eau de Cologne with English spirit, to resemble the original
article. To speak of the "purity" of French spirit, or of the "impurity"
of English spirit, is equally absurd. The fact is, that spirit derived
from grapes, and spirit obtained from corn, have each so distinct and
characteristic an aroma, that the one cannot be mistaken for the other.
The odor of grape spirit is said to be due to the oeanthic ether which
it contains. The English spirit, on the other hand, owes its odor to
fusel oil. So powerful is the oeanthic ether in the French spirit,
that notwithstanding the addition to it of such intensely odoriferous
substances as the ottos of neroli, rosemary, and others, it still gives
a characteristic perfume to the products made containing it, and hence
the difficulty of preparing Eau de Cologne with any spirit destitute of
this substance.
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