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Page 37
CASTOR is a secretion of the _Castor fiber_, or beaver, very
similar to civet. Though we have often heard of its being used in
perfumery, we do not personally know that such is the case.
MUSK.--This extraordinary substance, like civet, is an animal
secretion; it is contained in excretory follicles about the navel of the
male animal. In the perfumery trade these little bags are called "pods,"
and as imported it is called "pod musk." When the musk is separated from
the skin or sack in which it is contained, it is then called "grain
musk."
The musk deer (_Moschus moschatus_) is an inhabitant of the great
mountain range which belts the north of India, and branches out into
Siberia, Thibet, and China. And it is also found in the Altaic range,
near Lake Baikal, and in some other mountain ranges, but always on the
borders of the line of perpetual snow. It is from the male animal only
that the musk is produced.
[Illustration: Musk Pod, actual size.]
It formerly was held in high repute as a medicine, and is still so among
Eastern nations. The musk from Boutan, Tonquin, and Thibet, is most
esteemed, that from Bengal is inferior, and from Russia is of still
lower quality. The strength and the quantity produced by a single animal
varies with the season of the year and the age of the animal. A single
musk pod usually contains from two to three drachms of grain musk. Musk
is imported into England from China, in caddies of from 50 to 100 ounces
each. When adulterated with the animal's blood, which is often the case,
it forms into lumps or clots; it is sometimes also mixed with a dark,
friable earth. Those pods in which little pieces of lead are discovered,
as a general rule, yield the finest quality of musk; upon this rule, we
presume that the best musk is the most worthy of adulteration. Musk is
remarkable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of its scent; everything
in its vicinity soon becomes affected by it, and long retains its odor,
although not in actual contact with it.
It is a fashion of the present day for people to say "that they do not
like musk;" but, nevertheless, from great experience in one of the
largest manufacturing perfumatories in Europe, we are of opinion that
the public taste for musk is as great as any perfumer desires. Those
substances containing it always take the preference in ready sale--so
long as the vendor takes care to assure his customer "that there is no
musk in it."
[Illustration: The Musk Deer.]
The perfumer uses musk principally in the scenting of soap, sachet
powder, and in mixing for liquid perfumery. The just reputation of
Paris's original Windsor soap is due, in the main, to its delightful
odor. The soap is, doubtless, of the finest quality, but its perfume
stamps it among the _�lite_--its fragrance it owes to musk.
The alkaline reaction of soap is favorable to the development of the
odoriferous principle of musk. If, however, a strong solution of potass
be poured on to grain musk, ammonia is developed instead of the true
musk smell.
EXTRACT OF MUSK.
Grain musk, 2 oz.
Rectified spirit, 1 gallon.
After standing for one month, at a summer temperature, it is fit to draw
off. Such an extract is that which is used for mixing in other perfumes.
That extract of musk which is prepared for retail sale, is prepared
thus:--
EXTRAIT DE MUSC.
Extract of musk (as above), 1 pint.
" ambergris, 1/2 "
" rose triple, 1/4 "
Mix and filter it; it is then fit for bottling.
This preparation is sweeter than pure extract of musk made according to
our first formula, and is also more profitable to the vendor. It will be
seen hereafter that the original extract of musk is principally used for
a fixing ingredient in other perfumes, to give permanence to a volatile
odor; customers requiring, in a general way, that which is incompatible,
namely, that a perfume shall be strong to smell, _i.e._ very volatile,
and that it shall remain upon the handkerchief for a long period,
_ergo_, not volatile! Small portions of extract of musk, mixed with
esprit de rose, violet, tuberose, and others, do, in a measure, attain
this object; that is, after the violet, &c., has evaporated, the
handkerchief still retains an odor, which, although not that of the
original smell, yet gives satisfaction, because it is pleasant to the
nasal organ.
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