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Page 36
Nevertheless, as ambergris is extensively used as a perfume, in
deference to those who admire its odor, we presume that it has to many
an agreeable smell.
Like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition and possessing
little volatility, it, when mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives
permanence to them on the handkerchief, and for this quality the
perfumer esteems it much.
ESSENCE OF AMBERGRIS
Is only kept for mixing; when retailed it has to be sweetened up to the
public nose; it is then called after the Parisian name
EXTRAIT D'AMBRE.
Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint.
Extract of ambergris, 1 "
Essence of musk, 1/4 "
Extract of vanilla, 2 ounces.
This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well
perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been
washed.
The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which
clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak
alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through
the lavatory ordeal.
Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of cassolettes--little
ivory or bone boxes perforated--which are made to contain a paste of
strong-smelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule; also in
the making of peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming
writing paper and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter.
[Illustration: Civet Cat.]
CIVET.--This substance is secreted by the _Viverra civetta_, or
civet cat. It is formed in a large double glandular receptacle between
the anus and the pudendum of the creature. Like many other substances of
Oriental origin, it was first brought to this country by the Dutch.
When the civet cats are kept in a state of confinement, which at one
time was common in Amsterdam, they are placed in strong cages, so
constructed as to prevent the animal from turning round and biting the
person employed in collecting the secreted substance. This operation is
said to be performed twice a week, and is done by scraping out the civet
with a small spoon: about a drachm at a time is thus obtained. A good
deal of the civet now brought to European markets is from Calicut,
capital of the province of Malabar, and from Bassora on the Euphrates.
In its pure state, civet has, to nearly all persons, a most disgusting
odor; but when diluted to an infinitesimal portion, its perfume is
agreeable. It is difficult to ascertain the reason why the same
substance, modified only by the quantity of matter presented to the
nose, should produce an opposite effect on the olfactory nerve; but such
is the case with nearly all odorous bodies, especially with ottos,
which, if smelled at, are far from nice, and in some cases, positively
nasty--such as otto of neroli, otto of thyme, otto of patchouly; but if
diluted with a thousand times its volume of oil, spirit, &c., then their
fragrance is delightful.
Otto of rose to many has a sickly odor, but when eliminated in the
homeopathic quantities as it rises from a single rose-bloom, who is it
that will not admit that "the rose is sweet?" The odor of civet is best
imparted, not by actual contact, but by being placed in the neighborhood
of absorbent materials. Thus, when spread upon leather, which, being
covered with silk and placed in a writing-desk, perfumes the paper and
envelopes delightfully, and so much so, that they retain the odor after
passing through the post.
EXTRACT OF CIVET is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce
of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar
material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then
placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating
for a month, it is fit to strain off. It is principally used as a
"fixing" ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor. The French
perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who
seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a pint to half a pint
is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume.
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