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Page 30
SPIKE.--French oil of lavender, which is procured from the
_Lavandula spica_, is generally called oil of spike. (See Lavender.)
STORAX and TOLU are used in perfumery in the same way
as benzoin, namely, by solution in spirit as a tincture. An ounce of
tincture of storax, tolu, or benzoin, being added to a pound of any very
volatile perfume, gives a degree of permanence to it, and makes it last
longer on the handkerchief than it otherwise would: thus, when any
perfume is made by the solution of an otto in spirit, it is usual to add
to it a small portion of a substance which is less volatile, such as
extract of musk, extract of vanilla, ambergris, storax, tolu, orris,
vitivert, or benzoin; the manufacturer using his judgment and discretion
as to which of these materials are to be employed, choosing, of course,
those which are most compatible with the odor he is making.
The power which these bodies have of "fixing" a volatile substance,
renders them valuable to the perfumer, independent of their aroma, which
is due in many cases to benzoic acid, slightly modified by an esential
oil peculiar to each substance, and which is taken up by the alcohol,
together with a portion of resin. When the perfume is put upon a
handkerchief, the most volatile bodies disappear first: thus, after the
alcohol has evaporated, the odor of the ottos appear stronger; if it
contains any resinous body, the ottos are held in solution, as it were,
by the resin, and thus retained on the fabric. Supposing a perfume to be
made of otto only, without any "fixing" substance, then, as the perfume
"dies away," the olfactory nerve, if tutored, will detect its
composition, for it spontaneously analyzes itself, no two ottos having
the same volatility: thus, make a mixture of rose, jasmine, and
patchouly; the jasmine predominates first, then the rose, and, lastly,
the patchouly, which will be found hours after the others have
disappeared.
SYRINGA.--The flowers of the _Philadelphus coronarius_, or
common garden syringa, have an intense odor resembling the
orange-blossom; so much so, that in America the plant is often termed
"mock orange." A great deal of the pomatum sold as pommade surfin, � la
fleur d'orange, by the manufacturers of Cannes, is nothing more than
fine suet perfumed with syringa blossoms by the maceration process.
Fine syringa pomade could be made in England at a quarter the cost of
what is paid for the so-called orange pomatum.
THYME.--All the different species of thyme, but more
particularly the lemon thyme, the _Thymus serpyllum_, as well as the
marjorams, origanum, &c., yield by distillation fragrant ottos, that are
extensively used by manufacturing perfumers for scenting soaps; though
well adapted for this purpose, they do not answer at all in any other
combinations. Both in grease and in spirit all these ottos impart an
herby smell (very naturally) rather than a flowery one, and, as a
consequence, they are not considered _recherch�_.
When any of these herbs are dried and ground, they usefully enter into
the composition of sachet powders.
TONQUIN, or TONKA.--The seeds of the _Dipterix
odorata_ are the tonquin or _coumarouma_ beans of commerce. When fresh
they are exceedingly fragrant, having an intense odor of newly made hay.
The _Anthoxanthum odoratum_, or sweet-smelling vernal grass, to which
new hay owes its odor, probably yields identically the same fragrant
principle, and it is remarkable that both tonquin beans and vernal
grass, while actually growing, are nearly scentless, but become rapidly
aromatic when severed from the parent stock.
Chemically considered, tonquin beans are very interesting, containing,
when fresh, a fragrant volatile otto (to which their odor is
principally due), benzoic acid, a fat oil and a neutral
principal--_Coumarin_. In perfumery they are valuable, as, when ground,
they form with other bodies an excellent and permanent sachet, and by
infusion in spirit, the tincture or extract of tonquin enters into a
thousand of the compound essences; but on account of its great strength
it must be used with caution, otherwise people say your perfume is
"snuffy," owing to the predominance of the odor and its well-known use
in the boxes of those who indulge in the titillating dust.
[Illustration: Tonquin.]
EXTRACT OF TONQUIN.
Tonquin beans, 1 lb.
Rectified spirit, 1 gallon.
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