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Page 29
It is put up for sale in a similar way to eau de Cologne, and is said to
take its name from one of the queens of Hungary, who is reported to
have derived great benefit from a bath containing it, at the age of
seventy-five years. There is no doubt that clergymen and orators, while
speaking for any time, would derive great benefit from perfuming their
handkerchief with Hungary water or eau de Cologne, as the rosemary they
contain excites the mind to vigorous action, sufficient of the stimulant
being inhaled by occasionally wiping the face with the handkerchief
wetted with these "waters." Shakspeare giving us the key, we can
understand how it is that such perfumes containing rosemary are
universally said to be "so refreshing!"
SAGE.--A powerful-scenting otto can be procured by distillation
from any of the _Salvie�_. It is rarely used, but is nevertheless very
valuable in combination for scenting soap.
Dried sage-leaves, ground, will compound well for sachets.
SANTAL.--_Santalum album_.
"The santal tree perfumes, when riven,
The axe that laid it low." CAMERON.
This is an old favorite with the lovers of scent; it is the wood that
possesses the odor. The finest santal-wood grows in the island of Timor,
and the Santal-wood Islands, where it is extensively cultivated for the
Chinese market. In the religious ceremonies of the Brahmins, Hindoos,
and Chinese, santal-wood is burned, by way of incense, to an extent
almost beyond belief. The _Santala_ grew plentifully in China, but the
continued offerings to the Buddahs have almost exterminated the plant
from the Celestial Empire; and such is the demand, that it is about to
be cultivated in Western Australia, in the expectation of a profitable
return, which we doubt not will be realized; England alone would consume
tenfold the quantity it does were its price within the range of other
perfuming substances. The otto which exists in the santal-wood is
readily procured by distillation; 1 cwt. of good wood will yield about
30 ounces of otto.
[Illustration: Santal-wood.]
The white ant, which is so common in India and China, eating into every
organic matter that it comes across, appears to have no relish for
santal-wood; hence it is frequently made into caskets, jewel-boxes,
deed-cases, &c. This quality, together with its fragrance, renders it a
valuable article to the cabinet-makers of the East.
The otto of santal is remarkably dense, and is above all others
oleaginous in its appearance, and, when good, is of a dark straw color.
When dissolved in spirit, it enters into the composition of a great many
of the old-fashioned bouquets, such as "Marechale," and others, the
formul� of which will be given hereafter. Perfumers thus make what is
called
EXTRAIT DE BOIS DE SANTAL.
Rectified spirits, 7 pints.
Esprit de rose, 1 pint.
Essential oil, _i.e._ otto, of santal, 3 oz.
All those EXTRACTS, made by dissolving the otto in alcohol, are
nearly white, or at least only slightly tinted by the color of the oil
used. When a perfumer has to impart a delicate _odeur_ to a lady's
_mouchoir_, which in some instances costs "no end of money," and is an
object, at any cost, to retain unsullied, it behooves his reputation to
sell an article that will not stain a delicate white fabric. Now, when a
perfume is made in a direct manner from any wood or herb, as tinctures
are made, that is, by infusion in alcohol, there is obtained, besides
the odoriferous substance, a solution of coloring and extractive matter,
which is exceedingly detrimental to its fragrance, besides seriously
staining any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon; and for this
reason this latter method should never be adopted, except for use upon
silk handkerchiefs.
The odor of santal assimilates well with rose; and hence, prior to the
cultivation of rose-leaf geranium, it was used to adulterate otto of
roses; but is now but seldom used for that purpose.
By a "phonetic" error, santal is often printed "sandal," and "sandel."
SASSAFRAS.--Some of the perfumers of Germany use a tincture of
the wood of the _Laurus sassafras_ in the manufacture of hair-washes and
other nostrums; but as, in our opinion, it has rather a "physicky" smell
than flowery, we cannot recommend the German recipes. The _Eau
Athenienne_, notwithstanding, has some reputation as a hair-water, but
is little else than a weak tincture of sassafras.
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