The Art of Perfumery by G. W. Septimus Piesse


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Page 14

CARAWAY.--This odoriferous principle is drawn by distillation
from the seeds of the _Carum carui_. It has a very pleasant smell, quite
familiar enough without description. It is well adapted to perfume soap,
for which it is much used in England, though rarely if ever on the
continent; when dissolved in spirit it may be used in combination with
oil of lavender and bergamot for the manufacture of cheap essences, in a
similar way to cloves (see CLOVES). If caraway seeds are
ground, they are well adapted for mixing to form sachet powder (see
SACHETS).

CASCARILLA.--The bark is used in the formation of pastilles,
and also enters into the composition known as _Eau � Bruler_, for
perfuming apartments, to which we refer.

The bark alone of this plant is used by the manufacturing perfumer, and
that only in the fabrication of pastilles. The _Cascarilla gratissimus_
is however so fragrant, that according to Burnett its leaves are
gathered by the Koras of the Cape of Good Hope as a perfume, and both
the _C. fragrans_ and _C. fragilis_ are odoriferous. It behooves
perfumers, therefore, who are on the look out for novelties, to obtain
these leaves and ascertain the result of their distillation.

Messrs. Herring and Co., some years ago, drew the oil of cascarilla, but
it was only offered to the trade as a curiosity.

CASSIA.--The essential oil of cassia is procured by distilling
the outer bark of the _Cinnamomum cassia_. 1 cwt. of bark yields rather
more than three quarters of a pound of oil; it has a pale yellow color;
in smell it much resembles cinnamon, although very inferior to it. It is
principally used for perfuming soap, especially what is called "military
soap," as it is more aromatic or spicy than flowery in odor; it
therefore finds no place for handkerchief use.

CASSIE.--

"The short narcissus and fair daffodil,
Pansies to please the sight, and _cassie_ sweet to swell."

DRYDEN'S _Virgil_.

This is one of those fine odors which enters into the composition of the
best handkerchief bouquets.

[Illustration: Flower-buds of the Acacia Farnesiana.]

When smelled at alone, it has an intense violet odor, and is rather
sickly sweet.

It is procured by maceration from the _Acacia farnesiana_. The purified
fat is melted, into which the flowers are thrown and left to digest for
several hours; the spent flowers are removed, and fresh are added, eight
or ten times, until sufficient richness of perfume is obtained. As many
flowers are used as the grease will cover, when they are put into it, in
a liquid state.

After being strained, and the pomade has been kept at a heat sufficient
only to retain its liquidity, all impurities will subside by standing
for a few days. Finally cooled, it is the cassie pomade of commerce. The
_Huile de Cassie_, or fat oil of cassie, is prepared in a similar
manner, substituting the oil of Egyptian ben nut, olive oil, or almond
oil, in place of suet. Both these preparations are obviously only a
solution of the true essential oil of cassie flowers in the neutral
fatty body. Europe may shortly be expecting to import a similar scented
pomade from South Australia, derived from the Wattle, a plant that
belongs to the same genus as the _A. farnesiana_, and which grows most
luxuriantly in Australia. Mutton fat being cheap, and the wattle
plentiful, a profitable trade may be anticipated in curing the flowers,
&c.

To prepare the extract of cassie, take six pounds of No. 24 (best
quality) cassie pomade, and place upon it one gallon of the best
rectified spirit, as sent out by Bowerbank, of Bishopsgate. After it has
digested for three weeks or a month, at a summer heat, it is fit to draw
from the pomatum, and, if good, has a beautiful green color and rich
flowery smell of the cassie blossom. All extracts made by this
process--_maceration_, or, as it may be called, cold _infusion_, give a
more natural smell of the flowers to the result, than by merely
dissolving the essential oil (procured by distillation) in the spirit;
moreover, where the odor of the flower exists in only very minute
quantities, as in the present instance, and with violet, jasmine, &c.,
it is the only practical mode of proceeding.

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