The Art of Perfumery by G. W. Septimus Piesse


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Page 13

BALSAM.--Under this title there are two or three substances
used in perfumery, such as balsam of Peru, balsam of Tolu, and balsam of
storax (also called liquid amber). The first-named, is procured from the
_Myroxylon peruiferum_; it exudes from the tree when wounded, and is
also obtained by boiling down the bark and branches in water. The latter
is the most common method for procuring it. It has a strong odor, like
benzoin.

Balsam of Tolu flows from the _Toluifera balsammum_. It resembles common
resin (rosin); with the least warmth, however, it runs to a liquid, like
brown treacle. The smell of it is particularly agreeable, and being
soluble in alcohol makes a good basis for a bouquet, giving in this
respect a permanence of odor to a perfume which the simple solution of
an oil would not possess. For this purpose all these balsams are very
useful, though not so much used as they might be.

"ULEX has found that balsam of Tolu is frequently
adulterated with common resin. To detect this adulteration he
pours sulphuric acid on the balsam, and heats the mixture, when
the balsam dissolves to a cherry-red fluid, without evolving
sulphurous acid, but with the escape of benzoic or cinnamic acid,
if no common resin is present. On the contrary, the balsam foams,
blackens, and much sulphurous acid is set free, if it is
adulterated with common resin."--_Archives der Pharmacie_.

Balsam of storax, commonly called gum styrax, is obtained in the same
manner, and possessing similar properties, with a slight variation of
odor, is applicable in the same manner as the above.

They are all imported from South America, Chili, and Mexico, where the
trees that produce them are indigenous.

BAY, oil of sweet Bay, also termed essential oil of
laurel-berries, is a very fragrant substance, procured by distillation
from the berries of the bay laurel. Though very pleasant, it is not much
used.

BERGAMOT.--This most useful perfume is procured from the
_Citrus Bergamia_, by expression from the peel of the fruit. It has a
soft sweet odor, too well known to need description here. When new and
good it has a greenish-yellow tint, but loses its greenness by age,
especially if kept in imperfectly corked bottles. It then becomes cloudy
from the deposit of resinous matter, produced by the contact of the air,
and acquires a turpentine smell.

It is best preserved in well-stoppered bottles, kept in a cool cellar,
and in the dark; light, especially the direct sunshine, quickly
deteriorates its odor. This observation may be applied, indeed, to all
perfumes, except rose, which is not so spoiled.

When bergamot is mixed with other essential oils it greatly adds to
their richness, and gives a sweetness to spice oils attainable by no
other means, and such compounds are much used in the most highly scented
soaps. Mixed with rectified spirit in the proportions of about four
ounces of bergamot to a gallon, it forms what is called "extract of
bergamot," and in this state is used for the handkerchief. Though well
covered with extract of orris and other matters, it is the leading
ingredient in Bayley and Blew's Ess. Bouquet (see BOUQUETS).

[Illustration: Styrax Benzoin.]

BENZOIN, also called Benjamin.--This is a very useful substance
to perfumers. It exudes from the _Styrax benzoin_ by wounding the tree,
and drying, becomes a hard gum-resin. It is principally imported from
Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The best kind comes from the latter
place, and used to be called Amygdaloides, because of its being
interspersed with several white spots, which resemble broken almonds.
When heated, these white specks rise as a smoke, which is easily
condensed upon paper. The material thus separated from the benzoin is
called flowers of benzoin in commerce, and by chemists is termed benzoic
acid. It has all, or nearly all, the odor of the resin from which it is
derived.

The extract, or tincture of benzoin, forms a good basis for a
bouquet.[B] Like balsam of Tolu, it gives permanence and body to a
perfume made with an essential oil in spirit.

The principal consumption of benzoin is in the manufacture of pastilles
(see PASTILLES), and for the preparation of fictitious vanilla
pomade (see POMATUMS).

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