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Page 27
The pieces now go to the great sewing rooms of the factory, where are
long rows of busy sewing girls. If the manufacturer of years ago
could revisit the scenes of his earthly toil, and wander through the
sewing rooms of a modern factory, he would doubtless be greatly amazed
at the sight presented there. In his day such a thing was unknown. The
glove was then held in position by a hand clamp, while the sewing girl
pushed the needle in and out, making an overseam. All this is done now
in an infinitely more rapid manner by machine, and with resulting
seams that are more regular and strong than those made by the hand
sewer. The overseam sewers earn large wages, and their places are much
coveted. Overlapping seams are produced on the pique machine, which is
a most ingenious mechanism. The essential feature of this machine is a
long steel finger with a shuttle and bobbin working within, and the
finger of the glove is drawn upon this steel finger, permitting the
seam to be sewn through and through. The visitor to the factory can
see also the minor operations of embroidering, lining--in finished
gloves--sewing the facing, sewing the buttonholes, putting on the
buttons, and trimming with various kinds of thread. Before the gloves
are ready for the boxes one more operation remains. The gloves are
somewhat unsightly as they come from the sewers' hands, and must be
made trim and neat. To secure these desirable results the gloves are
taken to the "laying-off" room.
In this are long tables with a long row of brass hands projecting at
an acute angle. These are filled with steam and are too hot to touch.
These steam tables by ingenious devices are so arranged that it is
impossible to burn the glove or stiffen the leather by too much heat,
a common defect in ordinary methods. The operation of the "laying-off"
room is finished with surprising quickness. Before each table stands
an operator, who slips a glove over each frame, draws it down to
shape, and after a moment's exposure to the warmth removes it, smooth,
shapely, and ready for the box. The frames upon which the gloves are
drawn are long and narrow for fine gloves and short and stubby for
common ones. Then the glove is taken to the stock room, where there
are endless shelves and bins to testify to the chief drawback to glove
making, the necessity for innumerable patterns.--_The Mercer._
* * * * *
FABRIC FOR UPHOLSTERY PURPOSES.
The object of this invention is to produce a firm, solid,
dust-resisting, and durable woven cloth, composed, preferably,
entirely of cotton, but it may be of a cotton warp combined with a
linen or other weft, and is particularly applicable for covering the
seats and cushions of railway and other carriages, for upholstering
purposes, for bed ticking, and for various other uses. To effect this
object, a cotton warp and, preferably, a cotton weft also are
employed, or a linen, worsted, or other weft may be used. Both the
yarns for warp and weft may be either dull or polished, according to
the appearance and finish of cloth desired. The fabric is woven in a
plain loom, and the ends are drawn through say eight heald shafts, but
four, sixteen, or thirty-two heald shafts might be employed. When
eight heald shafts are employed, the warp is drawn as follows: The 1st
warp end in the first heald shaft, the 2d warp end in the second heald
shaft, and so on, the remaining six warp ends being drawn in, in
consecutive order, through the remaining six heald shafts; the 9th
warp end is drawn in through the first heald shaft, and so on, the
drawing in of the other ends being repeated as above. The order of the
shedding is as follows: 1st change. The 1st and 3d heald shafts fall,
the rest remaining up. 2d change. The 5th and 7th shafts fall, and the
1st and 3d rise. 3d change. The 2d and 4th shafts fall, and the 5th
and 7th rise. 4th change. The 6th and 8th shafts fall, and the 2d and
4th shafts rise. The result is that each weft thread, a, passes under
six warp threads, b, and over two warp threads, in the manner
illustrated by the accompanying diagram. In drawing in, when four
heald shafts are employed, the 1st warp end is drawn in through the
1st heald shaft, the 2d through the 2d shaft, the 3d through the 1st,
the 4th through the 2d, the 5th through the 3d, the 6th through the
4th, the 7th through the 3d, and 8th through the 4th shaft, and
repeating with the 9th end through the 1st shaft. In shedding, the 1st
heald shaft is lowered, then the 3d, then the 2d, and then 4th. The
result, in this case, is still the same, viz., that each weft thread
passes under six warp ends and over two warp ends. Although a cotton
warp is spoken of in some cases, worsted or other yarn can be added to
the cotton warp to obtain a variation in the pattern or
design.--_Jour. of Fabrics._
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