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Page 26
They are now cured, but they are yet hard and rough. Another
objectionable feature is that they are of unequal thickness. Breaking
and staking, as they are called, are now resorted to, to make the
skins soft, pliable, and of even texture, removing the superfluous
chemicals with which they become charged, and the stiffness by
manipulating the fibers. Much trained skill and dexterity, especially
in knee and arm staking, are required in the stretching, which is the
essential feature of these operations. Breaking is first resorted to.
The break beam, which is armed at each end with a knife edge,
oscillates up and down. In a frame beneath it the operator stretches
the dried and stiff skin. The break beam comes down upon the skin,
stretches and softens it, and removes much surplus custard. The
operator presents a new surface to each stroke of the break beam, and
in a very short space of time the entire skin is rendered soft and
pliable.
Further manipulation upon the arm or knee stake--of which a dull,
semicircular knife blade, supported upon a suitable standard upon the
floor or upon a beam about opposite the worker's elbow is the main
feature--is required. The skin must be drawn across this knife blade
with a considerable application of force so as to reduce the unduly
thick parts, stretch the skin and secure a uniform thickness suitable
for gloves. Much dexterity, especially in the case of fine skins, is
required in this operation to avoid cutting or tearing. The operator
places the fleshy side of the skin over the knife, grasps the two ends
of the skin, and placing his knee upon it and slowly drawing the skin
across the knife edge, he brings his weight to bear upon it. If the
operator is skilled and experienced the skin yields quickly, when
needed, to the strain applied and a uniform texture is secured. The
operation of transforming the skin into leather is now finished, but
age is necessary to secure perfect pliability and softness. The skins
are, therefore, laid away to let the slow chemical operation going on
within them be completed.
The visitor can now watch the further processes of manufacture by
visiting the dye rooms. Skins which have already been aged are
immersed in dye vats, where the delicate colors are imparted to them.
The same care is not required in obtaining the ordinary range of dark
colors, for these are "brushed" on, the skin being spread upon a glass
slab and the dye being painted on with a brush. After they are dyed
the skins are sometimes somewhat hard, and in some classes have to be
staked again in order to restore their pliability. The finishing
touches to a kid skin are secured by rubbing the grain side over with
a size, which imparts a gloss. The experience of Gloversville
manufacturers with "buck" gloves has enabled them to impart a special
finish to a skin which is very popular under the title of "Mocha."
This is the same as suede finish, which is produced in other countries
by shaving off the grain side of the skin at an early stage of its
progress. The Gloversville method is much better, however, and has
more perfect results. Here the grain is removed, and the velvet finish
secured by buffing the surface on an emery wheel. The surface of the
leather is cut away in minute particles by this process, and the
result is an exceedingly even and velvety texture, superior to that
obtained by other methods. European manufacturers do not approach the
Americans in this respect.
The leathermaker leaves off and the glovemaker begins.
A marble slab lies before the cutter on a table, and every particle of
dirt or other inequality is removed before "doling." The skin is
spread, flesh side up, upon the slab, and the cutter goes over it with
a broad bladed chisel or knife, shaving down inequalities and removing
all the porous portions. The dexterity with which this is done makes
the operation appear extremely simple, but any but a skilled and
experienced operative would almost surely cut through the skin. The
most delicate part of the glovemaker's art, in which exact judgment is
required, comes in preparing the "tranks" or slips, from which the
separate gloves are cut. The trank must be so cut as to have just
enough leather to make a glove of a certain size and number. The
operation would be easy enough if the material were hard and stiff,
and if the elasticity were uniform, but this is rarely the case.
To accomplish this operation the trank must be firmly stretched in one
direction, and while so stretched a "redell" stamps the proper
dimensions in the other direction, to which the leather is trimmed.
Upon the nicety with which this operation is performed depends the
question of whether the finished glove will stretch evenly or too much
or too little in one direction or the other. After this the trank or
outline of the glove must be cut out. In olden times of glove
manufacture an outline was traced upon the leather and the pattern was
cut with shears. Modern invention has produced dies and presses which
are universally used. The steel die has the outline of a double glove,
including the opening for the thumb piece. The die rests upon the bed
of the press. Several tranks are laid upon it, the lever is drawn, and
in a moment the blanks are cut out clean and smooth. The gussets,
facings, etc., are cut from the waste leather in the thumb opening at
the same operation. Similar dies are used in the cutting of the thumb
pieces and fourchettes or strips forming the sides of the fingers.
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