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Page 18
If one is about to adopt a grape-culture as a calling, common-
sense requires that he should locate in some region peculiarly
adapted to the vine. If the possessor of a large farm purposes to
put several acres in vineyard, he should also aim to select a soil
and exposure best suited to his purpose. Two thousand years ago
Virgil wrote, "Nor let thy vineyard bend toward the sun when
setting." The inference is that the vines should face the east, if
possible; and from that day to this, eastern and southern
exposures have been found the best. Yet climate modifies even this
principle. In the South, I should plant my vineyard on a north-
western slope, or on the north side of a belt of woods, for the
reason that the long, hot days there would cause too rapid an
evaporation from the foliage of the vines, and enfeeble, if not
kill them. In the limited space of the Home Acre one can use only
such land as he has, and plant where he must; but if the favorable
exposures indicated exist, it would be well to make the most of
them. I can mention, however, as encouragement to many, that I
saw, last fall, splendid grapes growing on perfectly level and
sandy soil in New Jersey.
A low-lying, heavy, tenacious clay is undoubtedly the worst ground
in which to plant a vine; and yet by thorough drainage, a liberal
admixture of sand, and light fertilizers, it can be made to
produce good grapes of some varieties. A light sandy soil, if
enriched abundantly with well-decayed vegetable and barnyard
manures, gives wider scope in choice of kinds; while on the ideal
well-drained sandy loam that we have described, any outdoor grape
can be planted hopefully if the garden is sufficiently removed
from the seaboard.
As a general truth it may be stated that any land in a condition
to produce a fine crop of corn and potatoes is ready for the vine.
This would be true of the entire garden if the suggestions
heretofore made have been carried out. Therefore the borders which
have been named are ready to receive the vines, which may be
planted in either spring or fall. I prefer the fall season for
several reasons. The ground is usually drier then, and crumbles
more finely; the young vine becomes well established and settled
in its place by spring, and even forms new roots before the
growing season begins, and in eight cases out of ten makes a
stronger growth than follows spring planting; it is work
accomplished when there is usually the greatest leisure. If the
ground is ready in EARLY spring, I should advise no delay. A
year's growth is gained by setting out the vines at once. As a
rule I do not advise late spring planting--that is, after the buds
have started on the young vines. They may live, but usually they
scarcely do more, the first year.
In ordering from a nursery I should ask for vigorous, well-rooted
two-year-old vines, and I should be almost as well contented with
first-class one-year-olds. If any one should advertise "extra
large, strong vines, ready to bear at once," I should have nothing
to do with him. That's a nursery trick to get rid of old stock.
The first year after the shock of removal a vine should not be
permitted to bear at all; and a young vigorous vine is worth a
dozen old stunted ones.
Having procured the vines, keep them in a cool, moist place until
ready to plant. Never permit the roots to become dry; and if some
of them are long and naked, shorten them to two feet, so as to
cause them to throw out side fibrous roots, which are the true
feeders. Excavate holes of ample size, so that all the roots may
be spread out naturally. If you have reason to think the ground is
not very good, two or three quarts of fine bone-dust thoroughly
mixed with the soil that is placed on and about the roots will
give a fine send-off. Usually a good mulch of any kind of barnyard
manure placed on the SURFACE after planting will answer all
purposes. Before filling in the hole over the roots, place beside
the vine a stout stake six or seven feet high. This will be all
the support required the first year. Cut back the young vine to
three buds, and after they get well started, let but one grow. If
the planting is done in the fall, mound the earth up over the
little vine at the approach of winter, so as to cover it at least
six inches below the surface. In spring uncover again as soon as
hard frosts are over--say early April in our latitude. Slow-
growing varieties, like the Delaware, may be set out six feet
apart; strong growers, like the Concord, eight feet. Vines can not
be expected to thrive under the shade of trees, or to fight an
unequal battle in ground filled with the roots of other plants.
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