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Page 4
To produce the most favourable impression of any new place, it is
essential that it should be seen for the first time in fine weather.
Places look so very different under a canopy of cloud, and, perhaps, a
deluge of rain, or when they are bathed in the sunshine of a beautiful
day. Happily for me, my first view of Cape Town was under the latter
genial aspect. I need scarcely say, that I was, in consequence, quite
charmed with my first sight of this celebrated town, the seat of
Government of the Cape Colony. What made the scene more than usually
striking to a traveller, fresh from the sea, was, that it was the
Queen's birthday, and the day dawned with a most perfect specimen of
"Queen's weather." Cape Town was literally _en f�te_. The inhabitants
thronged the streets. I was astonished at the great variety of gay
costumes among the motley crowd--English, Dutch, Germans and French,
Malays, Indian Coolies, Kafirs, and Hottentots--a tremendous gathering,
in fact, of all nations, and "all sorts and conditions of men." There
was a grand review of all the military branches of the Service, in which
His Excellency the Administrator, General Smyth, surrounded by a
brilliant staff, received the homage due to the British flag; and, as
her representative on this occasion, to Her Majesty's honoured name. The
review was followed by a regatta in the afternoon. It was quite
refreshing to a new arrival, like myself, to observe the enthusiastic
evidences of loyal feeling everywhere exhibited in the capital of the
Colony to our Queen, the beloved and venerated head of the British
Empire.
[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN.]
Before commencing my long and interesting tour "up country," I spent a
few most pleasant, days at Cape Town. My impressions of it, and of its
beautiful surroundings, could not fail to be most favourable. The
panoramic view of its approach from Table Bay, at the foot of Table
Mountain, is very fine. The town itself appeared to me much cleaner, and
brighter than I expected to see it, although, it must be admitted, there
is still considerable room for improvement in its sanitary arrangements,
and also in the accommodation, and condition of its hotels, to make them
as attractive as they ought to be. The best of them do not come at all
up to our standard at home, nor to our English ideas of comfort and
convenience. A great improvement in these respects, I am satisfied, is
not only necessary, but would pay well, and induce a far larger number
of visitors to stay at Cape Town, and avail themselves of its
attractions of climate, and fine surroundings.
While I was at Cape Town, I visited among other places, the House of
Parliament, the Observatory, the South African Museum, the Public
Library, the Botanic Gardens, &c.
[Illustration: PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN.]
The House of Parliament, which was opened for public use in 1885, is a
very handsome building, having a frontage of 264 feet, and is divided
into a central portico, leading into the grand vestibule, the two
debating chambers, and side pavilions. The portico, which is of massive
dimensions, is approached by a commanding flight of granite steps, which
runs round three sides of it. The pavilions are relieved by groups of
pilasters with Corinthian capitals, and are surmounted by domes and
ventilators. The whole of the ground floor up to the level of the main
floor has been built of Paarl granite, which is obtained from the
neighbouring district of that name. The upper part of the building is of
red brick, relieved by pilasters and window dressing of Portland cement,
the effect being very pleasing to the eye. The interior accommodation
for the business of the two Legislative bodies is most complete, and
arranged with a careful view to comfort and convenience. In addition to
the Debating Chambers, which are sixty-seven feet in length by
thirty-six feet in width, there is a lofty hall of stately appearance,
with marble pillars, and tesselated pavement, which forms the central
lobby, or grand vestibule. I might mention, that the debating chambers
are only ten feet in length and width less than the British House of
Commons. Adjoining the central lobby is the parliamentary library, a
large apartment, with galleries above each other reaching to the full
height of the building. The usual refreshment, luncheon, and smoking
rooms have not been forgotten, in connection with the comfort of the
members. The public are accommodated in roomy galleries, and ample
provision has been made for ladies, distinguished visitors, and the
press. The portrait of Her Majesty, and the Mace at the table reminds
one forcibly of the fact that one is still in a portion of the British
Empire. The total cost of the building, including furniture, was
�220,000.
I attended two or three debates in the House of Parliament, and was much
impressed with the manner in which, in this superb and commodious
legislative chamber, the discussions were carried on. There was a quiet
dignity of debate, as well as business-like capacity and orderly tone,
observed on both sides of the House, which might be copied with
advantage, as it is in striking contrast to much of the practice, in the
Parliament of Great Britain. It is certainly satisfactory to notice,
that the modern manners and customs, in the popular branch of our own
ancient national assembly, which so frequently fail in orthodox
propriety, have not been imitated in the Cape Colony.
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