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Page 18
I came away quite amazed at all I saw, as well as pleased at the
attention I received from the Abbot. He is certainly a very remarkable
man, of great natural gifts, and indomitable energy and power. He is
sixty-five years of age. He was born on the shores of Lake Constance;
and before he took to studying for the Roman Catholic Church in a
German University, he was employed, as he told me, in early life in the
care of cattle at his native home.
The Trappist farm is beautifully situated, and within its area contains
some really fine scenery. The Kafir women's part of the establishment is
distinct, and quite half a mile distant from the men's quarters. Women
are taught to sew, and sing, to cut out and make dresses, to cook,
clean, and go through all the usual routine of household work. The
costume of the female Trappists, who, as well as the male, are highly
educated, is scarlet serge, with white aprons. The men are clothed in
brown serge.
I was struck with the admirable arrangement of the stables, constructed
for twenty horses, and of the cow and cattle sheds. All the engineering
works also show evidences of the complete knowledge of science possessed
by the "brothers," and their energetic leader. I came away much
interested, and wonderfully impressed with all I had seen in this
remarkable institution.
Up to the present time the defences of the Colony have been in a very
backward state but I was glad to find that a battery is in course of
construction, commanding the entrance to the Bay, which is to be armed
with guns of the latest pattern, one of them having recently arrived at
Durban.
Having passed ten very pleasant days at Durban and its neighbourhood, I
embarked, on the 15th of August, on board the coasting steamer,
_Anglian_, for Port Elizabeth. I had a terrible experience of the
annoyance of the present mode of embarking passengers at Durban. After
attempting to get over the Bar in a tremendous sea, we were obliged to
put back into the Harbour thoroughly drenched. Once more attempting it,
we succeeded after another good wetting in getting alongside the
_Anglian_, where we remained at anchor until the morning, waiting for
the Cargo Boat we were obliged to leave behind, rolling and pitching all
night. The eastern coast of South Africa is subject to weather which is
often very rough and stormy; and I was, unluckily, destined to
experience it. I certainly had a most disagreeable time, in making this
short voyage. After touching at East London, where extensive harbour
works are being constructed, I was landed at Port Elizabeth (after three
days' knocking about at sea) on the 18th, being let down, like St. Paul,
in a basket, from the deck of the _Anglian_ to the tug, which took me to
the pier in the open roadstead. Right glad was I to get on _terra firma_
again.
[Illustration: Decorative]
PORT ELIZABETH.
Port Elizabeth (Algoa Bay) which is generally known as the "Liverpool"
of South Africa, is the chief seaport of the Eastern Province, its trade
being steadily increased by the development of the Transvaal Gold
Fields, and the growth of the interior towns of the Cape Colony. It is a
thriving business town. Its inhabitants, like those of Natal, are
thoroughly energetic and active in the pursuit of their various
mercantile avocations, and number about 12,000, a large proportion being
Europeans.
The town contains many fine buildings, the most conspicuous being the
Town Hall and Public Library combined, which is a striking edifice,
erected at a cost of �26,000. Attached to it is the market, leading out
of which is a splendid and capacious hall, 180 feet long by 90 feet
broad. Here I saw a curious and unique scene. Long tables were extended
along its entire length, on which were arranged large heaps of ostrich
feathers, carefully tied up, and sampled for sale. Port Elizabeth is the
staple market for this industry. The value of the feathers I saw, I was
told, was something fabulous.
Port Elizabeth is a handsome town. In the upper part of it, called the
Hill, there are many good private residences, and an excellent club
house, at which I stayed, and enjoyed the kind hospitality, courteously
extended to me.
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