The Art of Perfumery by G. W. Septimus Piesse


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Page 78

French chalk, 1 lb.
Oxide of bismuth, 1 oz.
Oxide of zinc, 1 oz.

BLANC DE PERLE

Is pure oxide of bismuth in powder.

FRENCH BLANC

Is levigated talc passed through a silk sieve.

This is the best face powder made, particularly as it does not discolor
from emanation of the skin or impure atmosphere.

LIQUID BLANC (FOR THEATRICAL USE).

The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely
necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is
incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to
subdue it.

Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than
half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:--

Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint.
Oxide of bismuth, 4 oz.

Mixed by long trituration.

CALCINED TALC

Is also extensively used as a toilet powder, and is sold under various
names; it is not so unctuous as the ordinary kind.

ROUGE AND RED PAINTS.

These preparations are in demand, not only for theatrical use, but by
private individuals. Various shades of color are made, to suit the
complexions of the blonde and brunette. One of the best kind is that
termed

BLOOM OF ROSES.

Strong liquid ammonia, 1/2 oz.
Finest carmine, 1/4 oz.
Rose-water, 1 pint.
Esprit de rose (triple), 1/2 oz.

Place the carmine into a pint bottle, and pour on it the ammonia; allow
them to remain together, with occasional agitation, for two days; then
add the rose-water and esprit, and well mix. Place the bottle in a quiet
situation for a week; any precipitate of impurities from the carmine
will subside; the supernatant "Bloom of Roses" is then to be bottled for
sale. If the carmine was perfectly pure there would be no precipitate;
nearly all the carmine purchased from the makers is more or less
sophisticated, its enormous price being a premium to its adulteration.

Carmine cannot be manufactured _profitably_ on a small scale for
commercial purposes; four or five manufacturers supply the whole of
Europe! M. Titard, Rue Grenier St. Lazare, Paris, produces, without
doubt, the finest article; singular enough, however, the principal
operative in the establishment is an old Englishman.

"The preparation of the finest carmine is still a mystery, because, on
the one hand, its consumption being very limited, few persons are
engaged in its manufacture, and, upon the other, the raw material being
costly, extensive experiments on it cannot be conveniently
made."--DR. URE.

In the _Encyclop�die Roret_ will be found no less than a dozen recipes
for preparing carmine; the number of formul� will convince the most
superficial reader that the true form is yet withheld.

Analysis has taught us its exact composition; but a certain dexterity of
manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete
success.

Most of the recipes given by Dr. Ure, and others, are from this source;
but as they possess no practical value we refrain from reprinting them.

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Books | Photos | Paul Mutton | Fri 26th Dec 2025, 0:54