The Art of Perfumery by G. W. Septimus Piesse


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Page 58

[Illustration: Barring Gauge.]

Two or three days after the soap has been in the frame, it is cool
enough to cut into slabs of the size of the lifts or sections of the
frame; these slabs are set up edgeways to cool for a day or two more; it
is then barred by means of a wire. The lifts of the frame regulate the
widths of the bars; the gauge regulates their breadth. The density of
the soap being pretty well known, the gauges are made so that the
soap-cutter can cut up the bars either into fours, sixes, or eights;
that is, either into squares of four, six, or eight to the pound weight.
Latterly, various mechanical arrangements have been introduced for
soap-cutting, which in very large establishments, such as those at
Marseilles in France, are great economisers of labor; but in England the
"wire" is still used.

[Illustration: Squaring Gauge.]

[Illustration: Soap Scoop.]

For making tablet shapes the soap is first cut into squares, and is
then put into a mould, and finally under a press--a modification of an
ordinary die or coin press. Balls are cut by hand, with the aid of a
little tool called a "scoop," made of brass or ivory, being, in fact, a
ring-shaped knife. Balls are also made in the press with a mould of
appropriate form. The grotesque form and fruit shape are also obtained
by the press and appropriate moulds. The fruit-shaped soaps, after
leaving the mould, are dipped into melted wax, and are then colored
according to artificial fruit-makers' rules.

[Illustration: Soap Press.]

[Illustration: Moulds.]

The "variegated" colored soaps are produced by adding the various
colors, such as smalt and vermilion, previously mixed with water, to the
soap in a melted state; these colors are but slightly crutched in, hence
the streaky appearance or party color of the soap; this kind is also
termed "marbled" soap.

ALMOND SOAP.

This soap, by some persons "supposed" to be made of "sweet almond oil,"
and by others to be a mystic combination of sweet and bitter almonds, is
in reality constituted thus:--

Finest curd soap, 1 cwt.
" oil soap, 14 lbs.
" marine, 14 lbs.
Otto of almonds, 1-1/2 lb.
" cloves, 1/4 lb.
" caraway, 1/2 lb.

By the time that half the curd soap is melted, the marine soap is to be
added; when this is well crutched, then add the oil soap, and finish
with the remaining curd. When the whole is well melted, and just before
turning it into the frame, crutch in the mixed perfume.

Some of the soap "houses" endeavored to use Mirabane or artificial
essence of almonds (see ALMOND) for perfuming soap, it being
far cheaper than the true otto of almonds; but the application has
proved so unsatisfactory in practice, that it has been abandoned by
Messrs. Gibbs, Pineau (of Paris), Gosnell, and others who used it.

CAMPHOR SOAP.

Curd soap, 28 lbs.
Otto of rosemary, 1-1/4 lb.
Camphor, 1-1/4 lb.

Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with the addition
of an ounce or more of almond oil, then sift it. When the soap is melted
and ready to turn out, add the camphor and rosemary, using the crutch
for mixing.

HONEY SOAP.

Best yellow soap, 1 cwt.
Fig soft soap, 14 lbs.
Otto of citronella, 1-1/2 lb.

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Books | Photos | Paul Mutton | Wed 24th Dec 2025, 2:30