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Page 48
Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce
a new fragrance, _i.e._ Rondeletia! It is such combinations that
constitute in reality "a new perfume," which, though often advertised,
is very rarely attained. Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma,
and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when
so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used
accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a
like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal
proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or
hiding the presence of the other. In this way we discover that
patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the
vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most
delicate.
Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much, when we
express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve,
as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains.
By tutoring the olfactory nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter in
the atmosphere of the most subtle nature: not only that which is
pleasant, but also such as are unhealthful. If an unpleasant odor is a
warning to seek a purer atmosphere, surely it is worth while to
cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the
general benefit of health.
To return, however, to Rondeletia: it will be seen by the annexed
formul�, that, besides the main ingredients to which it owes its
peculiar character--that is, cloves and lavender--it contains musk,
vanilla, &c. These substances are used in these as in nearly all other
bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the
handkerchief.
ESSENCE OF RONDELETIA.
Spirit (brandy 60 o.p.), 1 gallon.
Otto of lavender, 2 oz.
" cloves, 1 oz.
" roses, 3 drachms.
" bergamot, 1 oz.
Extract of musk, }
" vanilla, } each, 1/4 pint.
" ambergris, }
The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for sale.
Very excellent Rondeletia may also be made with English spirit.
BOUQUET ROYAL.
Extract of rose (from pomade), 1 pint.
Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 "
Extract of jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1/2 "
" violet, }
" verbena, } each, 2-1/2 oz.
" cassie, }
Otto of lemons, } each, 1/4 oz.
" bergamot, }
Extract of musk, } each, 1 oz.
" ambergris, }
SUAVE.
Extract of tubereuse, }
" jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1 pint.
" cassie, }
" rose, }
" vanilla, 5 oz.
" musk, } each, 2 oz.
" ambergris, }
Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz.
" cloves, 1 drachm.
SPRING FLOWERS.
Extract of rose, } from pomade, each, 1 pint.
" violet, }
" rose, triple, 2-1/2 oz.
" cassie, 2-1/2 oz.
Otto of bergamot, 2 drachms.
Extract of ambergris, 1 oz.
The just reputation of this perfume places it in the first rank of the
very best mixtures that have ever been made by any manufacturing
perfumer. Its odor is truly flowery, but peculiar to itself. Being
unlike any other aroma it cannot well be imitated, chiefly because there
is nothing that we are acquainted with that at all resembles the odor of
the esprit de rose, as derived from macerating rose pomade in spirit, to
which, and to the extract of violet, nicely counterpoised, so that
neither odor predominates, the peculiar character of "Spring Flowers" is
due; the little ambergris that is present gives permanence to the odor
upon the handkerchief, although from the very nature of the ingredients
it may be said to be a fleeting odor. "Spring Flowers" is an
Englishman's invention, but there is scarcely a perfumer in Europe that
does not attempt an imitation.
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