The Art of Perfumery by G. W. Septimus Piesse


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Page 39

If requisite, strain through cotton wool, but it must not be filtered,
as it should have the appearance of a milk-white emulsion.

ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.--The pungency of the odor
of vinegar naturally brought it into the earliest use in the art of
perfumery.

The acetic acid, evolved by distilling acetate of copper (verdigris), is
the true "aromatic" vinegar of the old alchemists.

The modern aromatic vinegar is the concentrated acetic acid aromatized
with various ottos, camphor, &c., thus--

AROMATIC VINEGAR.

Concentrated acetic acid, 8 oz.
Otto of English lavender, 2 drachms.
" " rosemary, 1 drachm.
" cloves, 1 "
" camphor, 1 oz.

First dissolve the bruised camphor in the acetic acid, then add the
perfumes; after remaining together for a few days, with occasional
agitation, it is to be strained, and is then ready for use.

Several forms for the preparation of this substance have been published,
almost all of which, however, appear to complicate and mystify a process
that is all simplicity.

The most popular article of this kind is--

HENRY'S VINEGAR.

Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage,
mint, and lavender flowers, each, 1/2 oz.
Bruised nutmeg, cloves, angelica root, and
camphor, each, 1/4 oz.
Alcohol (rectified), 4 oz.
Concentrated acetic acid, 16 oz.

Macerate the materials for a day in the spirit; then add the acid, and
digest for a week longer, at a temperature of about 14� C. or 15� C.
Finally, press out the new aromatized acid, and filter it.

As this mixture must not go into the ordinary metallic tincture press,
for the obvious reason of the chemical action that would ensue, it is
best to drain as much of the liquor away as we can, by means of a common
funnel, and then to save the residue from the interstices of the herbs,
by tying them up in a linen cloth, and subjecting them to pressure by
means of an ordinary lemon-squeezer, or similar device.

VINAIGRE A LA ROSE.

Concentrated acetic acid, 1 oz.
Otto of roses, 1/2 drachm.

Well shaken together.

It is obvious that vinegars differently perfumed may be made in a
similar manner to the above, by using other ottos in place of the otto
of roses. All these concentrated vinegars are used in the same way as
perfumed ammonia, that is, by pouring three or four drachms into an
ornamental "smelling" bottle, previously filled with crystals of
sulphate of potash, which forms the "sel de vinaigre" of the shops; or
upon sponge into little silver boxes, called vinaigrettes, from their
French origin. The use of these vinegars had their origin in the
presumption of keeping those who carried them from the effects of
infectious disease, doubtless springing out of the story of the "four
thieves' vinegar," which is thus rendered in Lewis's Dispensatory:

"It is said that during the plague at Marseilles, four persons, by the
use of this preservative, attended, unhurt, multitudes of those that
were affected; that under the color of these services, they robbed both
the sick and the dead; and that being afterwards apprehended, one of
them saved himself from the gallows by disclosing the composition of the
prophylactic (a very likely story!!), which was as follows:--

VINAIGRE DES QUATRE VOLEURS, OR FOUR THIEVES' VINEGAR.

Take fresh tops of common wormwood, Roman
wormwood, rosemary, sage, mint, and rue, of
each, 3/4 oz.
Lavender flowers, 1 oz.
Garlic, calamus aromaticus, cinnamon, cloves,
and nutmeg, each, 1 drachm.
Camphor, 1/2 oz.
Alcohol or brandy, 1 oz.
Strong vinegar, 4 pints.

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Books | Photos | Paul Mutton | Mon 22nd Dec 2025, 9:54