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Page 34
WALLFLOWER (_Cherianthus_).--Exquisite as is the odor of this
flower, it is not used in perfumery, though no doubt it might be, and
very successfully too, were the plant cultivated for that purpose. To
this flower we would direct particular attention, as one well adapted
for experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country, our
climate being good for its production. The mode for obtaining its odor
has been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page 60. And if it
answers on the small scale, there is little doubt of success in the
large way, and there is no fear but that the scent of the old English
wallflower will meet with a demand.
An IMITATION ESSENCE OF WALLFLOWER can be compounded thus:--
Extract fleur d'orange, 1 pint.
" vanilla, 1/2 "
Esprit de rose, 1 "
Extract of orris, 1/2 "
" cassie, 1/2 "
Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops.
Allow this mixture to be made up for two or three weeks prior to putting
it up for sale.
WINTER GREEN (_Trientalis Europoea_).--A perfuming otto can
be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant: it is principally
consumed in the perfuming of soaps. Upon the strength of the name of
this odorous plant a very nice handkerchief perfume is made.
ICELAND WINTER GREEN.
Esprit de rose, 1 pint.
Essence of lavender, 1/4 "
Extract of neroli, 1/2 "
" vanilla, 1/4 "
" vitivert, 1/4 "
" cassie, 1/2 "
" ambergris, 1/4 "
We have now described all the important odoriferous bodies which are
used by the manufacturing perfumer, as derived from the botanic kingdom;
it may be understood that where an odoriferous material is unnoticed,
it has no qualities peculiar enough to be remarked on, and that the
methods adopted for preparing its essence, extract, water, or oil, are
analogous to those that have been already noticed, that is, by the
processes of _maceration_, _absorption_, or _enfleurage_ for flowers, by
_tincturation_ for roots, and by _distillation_ for seeds, modified
under certain circumstances.
There are, however, three other important derivative odors--ambergris,
civet, and musk--which, being from the animal kingdom, are treated
separately from plant odors, in order, it is considered, to render the
whole matter less confused to manufacturers who may refer to them.
Ammonia and acetic acid, holding an indefinite position in the order we
have laid down, may also come in here without much criticism, being
considered as primitive odors.
On terminating our remarks relating to the simple preparations of the
odors of plants, and before we speak of perfumes of an animal origin, or
of those compound _odors_ sold as bouquets, nosegays, &c., it may
probably be interesting to give a few facts and statistics, showing the
consumption, in England, of the several substances previously named.
QUANTITIES OF ESSENTIAL OILS, OR OTTOS, PAYING 1_S._ PER POUND DUTY,
ENTERED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION IN THE YEAR 1852.
lbs.
Otto of bergamot, 28,574
" caraway, 3,602
" cassia, 6,163
" cloves, 595
Otto of lavender, 12,776
" lemon, 67,348
" peppermint, 16,059
" roses, 1,268
" spearmint, 163
" thyme, 11,418
" lemon grass, }
" citronella, } 47,380
And other ottos not otherwise described, }
-------
Total essential oils or ottos imported in one year, 195,346
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