The Art of Perfumery by G. W. Septimus Piesse


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Page 32

After standing together for a few hours and then filtering, it is fit
for sale.

Another mixture of this kind, presumed by the public to be made from the
same plant, but of a finer quality, is composed thus--it is sold under
the title

EXTRAIT DE VERVEINE.

Rectified spirit, 1 pint.
Otto of orange peel, 1 oz.
" lemon peel, 2 oz.
" citron, 1 drachm.
" lemon grass, 2-1/2 drachms.
Extrait de fleur d'orange, 7 oz.
" " tubereuse, 7 oz.
Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint.

This mixture is exceedingly refreshing, and is one of the most elegant
perfumes that is made. Being white, it does not stain the handkerchief.
It is best when sold fresh made, as by age the citrine oils oxidize, and
the perfume acquires an ethereal odor, and then customers say "it is
sour." The vervaine thus prepared enters into the composition of a great
many of the favorite bouquets that are sold under the title "Court
Bouquet," and others which are mixtures of violet, rose, and jasmine,
with verbena or vervaine in different proportions. In these
preparations, as also in Eau de Portugal, and in fact where any of the
citrine ottos are used, a much finer product is obtained by using grape
spirit or brandy in preference to the English corn spirit as a solvent
for them. Nor do they deteriorate so quickly in French spirit as in
English. Whether this be due to the oil of wine (oeanthic ether) or
not we cannot say, but think it is so.

VIOLET.--

"The forward violet thus did I chide:
Sweet thief, whence didst thou steal thy sweet that smells,
If not from my love's breath?"

The perfume exhaled by the _Viola odorata_ is so universally admired,
that to speak in its favor would be more than superfluous. The demand
for the "essence of violets" is far greater than the manufacturing
perfumers are at present able to supply, and as a consequence, it is
difficult to procure the genuine article through the ordinary sources of
trade.

Real violet is, however, sold by many of the retail perfumers of the
West End of London, but at a price that prohibits its use except by the
affluent or extravagant votaries of fashion. The violet farms from
whence the flowers are procured to make this perfume are very extensive
at Nice and Grasse, also in the neighborhood of Florence. The true
smelling principle or otto of violets has never yet been isolated: a
very concentrated solution in alcohol impresses the olfactory nerve with
the idea of the presence of hydrocyanic acid, which is probably a true
impression. Burnett says that the plant _Viola tricolor_ (heart's ease),
when bruised, smells like peach kernels, and doubtless, therefore,
contains prussic acid.

The flowers of the heart's ease are scentless, but the plant evidently
contains a principle which in other species of the Viola, is eliminated
as the "sweet that smells" so beautifully alluded to by Shakspeare.

For commercial purposes, the odor of the violet is procured in
combination with spirit, oil, or suet, precisely according to the
methods previously described for obtaining the aroma of some other
flowers before mentioned, such as those for cassie, jasmine,
orange-flower, namely, by maceration, or by _enfleurage_, the former
method being principally adopted, followed by, when "essence" is
required, digesting the pomade in rectified alcohol.

Good essence of violets, thus made, is of a beautiful green color, and,
though of a rich deep tint, has no power to stain a white fabric, and
its odor is perfectly natural.

The essence of violet, as prepared for retail sale, is thus made,
according to the quality and strength of the pomade:--Take from six to
eight pounds of the violet pomade, chop it up fine, and place it into
one gallon of perfectly clean (free from fusel oil) rectified spirit,
allow it to digest for three weeks or a month, then strain off the
essence, and to every pint thereof add three ounces of tincture of orris
root, and three ounces of esprit de cassie; it is then fit for sale.

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