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Page 16
CLOVES.--Every part of the clove plant (_Caryophyllus
aromaticus_) abounds with aromatic oil, but it is most fragrant and
plentiful in the unexpanded flower-bud, which are the cloves of
commerce. Cloves have been brought into the European market for more
than 2000 years. The plant is a native of the Moluccas and other islands
in the China seas. "The average annual crop of cloves," says Burnett,
"is, from each tree, 2 or 2-1/2 lbs., but a fine tree has been known to
yield 125 lbs. of this spice in a single season, and as 5000 cloves only
weigh one pound, there must have been at least 625,000 flowers upon this
single tree."
[Illustration: Clove.]
The oil of cloves may be obtained by expression from the fresh
flower-buds, but the usual method of procuring it is by distillation,
which is carried on to a very great extent in this country. Few
essential oils have a more extensive use in perfumery than that of
cloves; it combines well with grease, soap, and spirit, and, as will be
seen in the recipes for the various bouquets given hereafter, it forms a
leading feature in some of the most popular handkerchief essences,
Rondeletia, the Guard's Bouquet, &c., and will be found where least
expected. For essence of cloves, dissolve oil of cloves in the
proportion of two ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit.
DILL.--Perfumers are now and then asked for "dill water;" it
is, however, more a druggist's article than a perfumer's, as it is more
used for its medicinal qualities than for its odor, which by the way, is
rather pleasant than otherwise. Some ladies use a mixture of half dill
water and half rose water, as a simple cosmetic, "to clear the
complexion."
The oil of dill is procured by submitting the crushed fruit of dill
(_Anethum graveolens_) with water to distillation. The oil floats on the
surface of the distillate, from which it is separated by the funnel in
the usual manner; after the separation of the oil, the "water" is fit
for sale. Oil of dill may be used with advantage, if in small
proportions, and mixed with other oils, for perfuming soap.
EGLANTINE, or SWEET BRIAR, notwithstanding what the
poet Robert Noyes says--
"In fragrance yields,
Surpassing citron groves or spicy fields,"
does not find a place in the perfumer's "scent-room" except in name.
This, like many other sweet-scented plants, does not repay the labor of
collecting its odor. The fragrant part of this plant is destroyed more
or less under every treatment that it is put to, and hence it is
discarded. As, however, the article is in demand by the public, a
species of fraud is practised upon them, by imitating it thus:--
IMITATION EGLANTINE, OR ESSENCE OF SWEET BRIAR.
Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum, 1 pint.
" " cassie, 1/4 "
" " fleur d'orange, 1/4 "
Esprit de rose, 1/4 "
Oil of neroli, 1/2 drachm.
Oil of lemon grass (verbena oil), 1/2 "
ELDER (_Sambucus nigra_).--The only preparation of this plant
for its odorous quality used by the perfumer, is elder-flower water. To
prepare it, take nine pounds of elder-flowers, free from stalk, and
introduce it to the still with four gallons of water; the first three
gallons that come over is all that need be preserved for use; one ounce
of rectified spirit should be added to each gallon of "water" distilled,
and when bottled it is ready for sale. Other preparations of elder
flowers are made, such as milk of elder, extract of elder, &c., which
will be found in their proper place under Cosmetics. Two or three new
materials made from this flower will also be given hereafter, which are
likely to meet with a very large sale on account of the reputed cooling
qualities of the ingredients; of these we would call attention more
particularly to cold cream of elder-flowers, and to elder oil for the
hair.
The preparations of elder-flowers, if made according to the
Pharmacopoeias, are perfectly useless, as the forms therein given show
an utter want of knowledge of the properties of the materials employed.
FENNEL (_Foeniculum vulgare_).--Dried fennel herb, when
ground, enters into the composition of some sachet powders. The oil of
fennel, in conjunction with other aromatic oils, may be used for
perfuming soap. It is procurable by distillation.
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