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Page 6
Another interesting circumstance in the geological structure of the Isle
of Wight, is a series of strata, _vertical_ or highly inclined, which
run across the middle of it from east to west; while the strata on each
side are _horizontal_; they consist of ... a very thick stratum of clay
and sand (observable at Alum Bay), flinty chalk, chalk without flints,
chalk-marle, green sandstone with lime-stone and chert, dark-grey marle,
and ferruginous sand.
A PROGRESSIVE CHANGE is evidently taking place in the boundary line of
the coast--the sea making considerable invasions on the south side,
which is exposed to the resistless currents of the ocean; while on the
north it is found to be more gradually receding, from the accumulation
of sand and shingle drifted and deposited by the less impetuous tides of
the Solent Channel.--About Brixton, for instance, between Blackgang
Chine and the Freshwater Cliffs, the loss of land has been estimated
(from the successive removals of paths and hedges,) to exceed 200 feet
in breadth in less than a century; while in the neighbourhood of Ryde it
is known that the bed of a valley formerly accessible to the sea is now
rather above its highest level; and even in 1760, when Fielding visited
the island, the coast there is described by him as a wide disgusting
waste of mud, which is now covered with an increasing layer of sand,
sufficiently firm to bear wheel-carriages; and no doubt but in process
of time there will be a great accession to the beach, from the constant
though slow operation of the same causes--denuding on the one side, and
reciprocally accumulating on the other.
Good Stone of various qualities is found in most parts of the island:
and with that procured from the quarries of Binstead, the body of
Winchester Cathedral was built. All the houses along the Undercliff are
constructed with a beautiful kind of freestone procured on the spot.
Extensive pits are worked in the downs for the chalk, which is used
for manure, burning into lime, &c. A stratum of coals was formerly
believed to run through the central downs, and Sir Rt. Worsley
actually sunk a shaft for it near Bembridge; his labors however
were but poorly rewarded. Veins of coarse iron ore have also
appeared in some parts of the island.
The finest white sand in the kingdom is obtained from the sea-cliffs at
Freshwater, and is carried in great quantities to the glass and
porcelain manufactories. Excellent brick-earth abounds in almost every
part of the island: common native alum, copperas, specimens of
petrifactions, and many curious varieties of sea-weeds, are picked up on
the shores; in the cliffs and quarries are found numerous beautiful
fossil remains,--especially oysters and other bivalve shells, of a vast
size.
The central range of chalk hills divides the island into two nearly
distinct regions, the soil and strata being essentially different,--a
stiff clay predominating on the north side, which is extensively covered
with wood, while the south side is principally of a light sandy soil or
mellow loam, and being exceedingly fertile, the whole tract is almost
exclusively employed in tillage.
In geological terms, the north is formed of the _Eocene_ or
freshwater deposits: and the south of the _Cretaceous_ or oceanic,
except where the _Wealden_ exhibits itself at Sandown and Brixton
bays.--Though affording a great variety of soil, the island is upon
the whole well calculated for farming as may be inferred from its
proverbial fertility; "it was many years ago computed to produce as
much corn in one year as its inhabitants would consume in
seven,--and the improved cultivation, with the additional land
brought into tillage, has doubtless kept pace with the increased
population."
In AGRICULTURE there is now a close approximation to the routine
practised in the rest of the county: and there is scarcely any
peculiarity observable either in the system of Husbandry, or in the
manners of the Yeomanry, who are a very intelligent and respectable
class.
The constant intercourse which the inhabitants have with persons
from other parts of the kingdom, has in fact erased all insular
peculiarities. But the following extract from the Memoirs of Sir
John Oglander, which were written about the year 1700, will be read
with interest, as exhibiting a most
_Amusing Picture of the Islanders in the 16th century_.
"I have heard," says he, "and partly knowe it to be true, that not
only heretofore there was no lawyer nor attorney in owre island,
but in Sir George Carey's time [1588] an attorney coming in to
settle in the island, was by his command, with a pound of candles
hanging att his breech lighted, with bells about his legs, hunted
owte of the island; insomuch that owre ancestors lived here so
quietly and securely, being neither troubled to London nor
Winchester, so they seldom or never went owte of the island;
insomuch as when they went to London (thinking it an East India
voyage), they always made their wills, supposing no trouble like to
travaile."
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