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Page 53
If we sail to the eastward on leaving Cowes Harbour, the first objects
demanding our attention are Norris Castle and the royal Palace of
Osborne, with their extensive lawns sweeping to the shore, shaded by
numerous groups of noble trees. After passing the Creeks of King's Quay
and Wootton, we have a partial sight of Binstead: and a most
comprehensive view of the fashionable town of Ryde, just as we leave the
Pier. Hence to St. Helen's the coast forms several beautiful bays, lined
with gentlemen's seats and villas, hamlets, and luxuriant woods.
Brading Haven, with the adjacent villages of Bembridge, St. Helen's, and
Brading,--the whole encompassed by a semi-circular range of lofty
hills--forms a very agreeable picture, especially at the time of high
water. Our readers will have no difficulty in recognising the landmark
of St. Helen's tower on the beach, and that on Ashey Down, about four
miles inland.
Two miles further are the lofty Culver Cliffs, forming the north side of
Sandown Bay, on whose shores stand the village and fort of the same
name. At the southern extremity of this extensive bay rise the dark
precipices of Dunnose, penetrated by the Chines of Shanklin and
Luccombe. Near the latter commences the celebrated tract called the
Undercliff, whose varied and unique charms are nowhere so advantageously
seen as from the water, "whence it rises like a series of gigantic steps
that seem to lead from the lofty cliffs on the shore, to the summit of
the grand perpendicular wall" that bounds it on the land-side.--East
End, the lovely village of Bonchurch, the fast-increasing town of
Ventnor, and the stately castle of Steephill, are all fully presented to
our view: and less distinctly through the groves in which they are for
the most part embosomed, the villas of St. Lawrence, Old Park, Mirables,
&c. Beyond the pretty little cove of Puckaster we see part of Niton
village; and close to the shore, the gigantic tower of the Light-house.
A mile further is the Sandrock Spring, in the midst of a wild tract,
that terminates in the gloomy ravine called Blackgang Chine, backed by
the tower-crowned eminence of St. Catharine's Hill.
Hence to Compton Bay the coast is dreary and comparatively monotonous;
but we have a tolerable view of some of the smaller chines, and also of
the fine range of downs that stretch from the centre of the island to
its western extremity. Almost the whole extent of Freshwater Cliffs
meets the eye at once: but there is no great difficulty in recognizing
the most noted rocks, caves, &c. as we pass along. The various forms
which are exhibited by those huge masses of chalk the Needles, as we
approach and leave them, in connection with the beautiful precipices of
Scratchell's Bay, form perhaps the most interesting circumstance of our
voyage: the light-house seems placed on the very brink of the precipice:
and the brilliant scenery of Alum Bay will appear to advantage,
especially if it be a sunny afternoon.
Beyond this the coast consists of steep broken slopes and earthy cliffs,
some of them of considerable altitude, but presents no object of
particular interest till we near the river Yar, with its adjacent town
and villas: Newtown Creek opens about three miles further on. West
Cowes, as we approach it from Thorness Bay, has a beautiful aspect,
numerous genteel villas and first-rate lodging-houses covering the shore
for nearly a mile: and the ever-amusing scene of Cowes harbour will form
a delightful termination to our voyage.
* * * * *
The Passage and Conveyance.
* * * * *
JUNE 1, 1849.
* * * * *
BY STEAM-PACKETS.
>>_Strangers are particularly requested to attend to the following
recommendation._--We have always made it a point to delay the
publication of our Guides to as late a period as we well could
(often to a degree of inconvenience), in order that our readers may
be furnished with an accurate statement of the precise time of the
several passage-vessels starting to or from the island: but this,
instead of an advantage, often proved a disappointment: for perhaps
a change of hours unexpectedly took place within a week or
fortnight afterwards, in consequence of some new regulation in the
time of the railways, or from some motive on the part of one or
other of the steam-packet companies. We therefore particularly
advise strangers to make inquiry at the local inns, on board the
packets, or at the railway or booking offices, in all cases where
it is of important consequence to know exactly to a minute.
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