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Page 49
We shall pass two seats: FARRINGFORD, on the north side of the down,
surrounded by flourishing plantations; and about a mile and a half
further, the fine old manor-house of AFTON.
THE VILLAGE OF FRESHWATER is prettily interspersed with wood; but except
the church (whose front is more picturesque than most in the island),
has nothing to notice;--unless it should fortunately happen to be
high-tide at the time of our passing, and then the RIVER YAR will have a
lovely effect--winding between gently rising banks feathered with grove
and copse, shrouding here a mansion, and there a cottage; while
pleasure-boats and an unusual number of swans are seen gliding and
sporting on its silver bosom.
* * * * *
Passing over a neat bridge, and through the fertile parish of THORLEY,
whose church is the plainest in the island, we reach
YARMOUTH,
Standing opposite Lymington, and once a place of considerable
importance, having obtained a charter of franchises in the reign of
Henry II: it is very clean and open,--and being situated in the
neighbourhood of the most interesting coast scenery, is upon the whole
an agreeable place, particularly for gentlemen partial to marine
pleasures. Its chief support is derived from the shipping that anchor in
its excellent roadsted, and the passengers to and from Lymington; there
are three inns--the principal one (the George,) is a large ancient
building, formerly the Governor's house, where King Charles II was
entertained by Sir Rt. Holmes on his paying the island a visit in
1667.--The Church has recently received the ornament of a new tower, and
the interior boasts a good statue of the above-named Sir Robert. The
Castle (as it is called), is a heavy, plain mass of building,
constructed in the reign of Henry VIII to protect this entrance to the
Solent Channel.
The village of NORTON is on the opposite side of the river, where there
are several very respectable villas,--so sheltered by groves and
shrubberies, that the whole neighbourhood presents the delightful
appearance of a bold foreland completely shrouded in wood, even to the
water's edge.
Opposite _Carey's Sconce_, half a mile west of Norton, is HURST
CASTLE, built at the extremity of a long strip of shingly land
stretching out from the Hampshire coast, which here contracts the
width of the Solent Channel to less than a mile. Close by are two
Light-houses, erected for the purpose of assisting ships to clear
the passage through the Needles.
Four miles from Yarmouth we pass through SHALFLEET, a clean and populous
village: the Church is next the road, of a heavy construction,--yet
affording a good subject for a sketch. Northward is NEWTOWN, a very
ancient borough; which was a populous place in the time of Richard II
(when it was burned by the French, but soon afterwards rebuilt), and
though now reduced to a few humble cottages, the course of its streets
may yet be traced. It has a new church, of a neat design; and is noted
for its extensive salterns, and convenient haven.--Previously to the
passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, Yarmouth and Newtown each returned
two members to parliament.
* * * * *
_The Road by Calbourne and Carisbrooke._
The direct road from Freshwater-gate to Newport runs for the first three
or four miles at the northern foot of the range of downs described at p.
89; presenting no object worthy of separate remark till we reach
CALBOURNE, a considerable village, having a decent small inn. The pretty
situation of its neat little Church and Parsonage,--the handsome mansion
and luxuriant plantations of a first-rate seat called WESTOVER, close
by,--with a small stream running through the grounds and in front of the
neighbouring cottages,--altogether produce a very pleasing scene ...
"Where sweet simplicity resides, which Grace
And Beauty call their own."
Two miles further we pass SWAINSTON, another principal seat: the mansion
lies below the road, surrounded by trees; a copious stream, well stored
with fish, runs through the gardens and plantations, which are extensive
and judiciously laid-out; and the prospect-temple which crowns the hill
on the right is a very conspicuous object. From hence the road is on
the slope of a series of hills, often picturesquely shrouded in groves
and hanging woods; while in the more open parts some extensive views are
presented of the north side of the island, the sea, and the opposite
coast of Hampshire; but the prospect which is opened as we descend into
Carisbrooke is particularly grand: the village makes an admirable
foreground, backed by lofty hills,--on the left we see the town of
Newport and its adjoining hamlets, with E. Cowes Park, &c. in the
distance,--and on the right,
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