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Page 4
Though the island has to boast of many passages of highly romantic and
_brilliant_ scenery, yet the predominant character of its landscapes is,
as was hinted above, calculated to amuse, to delight, and promote
_cheerfulness_, rather than to astonish or impress the spectator with
feelings of awe by their stupendous grandeur; circumstances which,
combined with its salubrity of climate, render it a most desirable
retreat to the valetudinarian and nervous invalid: indeed all the
alterations which have latterly been made, or are now in progress, tend
to soften, embellish, and in point of convenience to improve the face of
the country. On this subject however it will be a question with many
persons of good taste, whether any of these artificial operations are
really improvements upon the native character of the island. An artist
would most probably decide in the negative: but we know there are many
nevertheless, who consider that whatever deterioration the island may
experience in some of her more wild and romantic features, is amply
compensated by the spread of cultivation and rural decoration, by the
increased facilities of travelling, and the multiplied means of
enjoyment now afforded to the pleasure-tourist.
* * * * *
A few particulars will suffice for the present, to prove the above
assertions, and may perhaps be found
USEFUL HINTS TO STRANGERS
Purposing a visit to the shores of the Garden of England. They may
arrange to breakfast comfortably at the usual hour in London--start by
the rail-road, and reach either of the above ports at noon, or even
earlier--steam-packets are in readiness to convey the passengers across,
and stage-coaches and other vehicles await their arrival at Cowes and
Ryde: our friends may then _ride round one-half_ of the island, and
return the next, or even _the same night!_ but this of course is
abridging the affair a little too much. But allow a full week, and that
will suffice to render it a very pleasant trip. If, for example, you
come to Southampton, sleep there, or at least tarry a few hours in the
examination of it: then take the last steamer to Cowes or Ryde, and
sleep there the first night: next morning commence the regular Tour of
three days, dining and sleeping twice or thrice at one or other of the
inns situated on the rocky side of the island, to enjoy at the same time
the more unusual feast of a wide prospect of the sea, and the music of
the foaming breakers thundering on the beach below. Supposing you start
from Cowes, as being opposite Southampton, the Route will bring you
round to Ryde; where you cross to Portsmouth, and having gone over the
fortifications, the dock-yard, and Nelson's ship, return by one or other
of the rail-roads. But if you arrive by Portsmouth and Ryde, then return
_via_ Cowes and 'Hampton.--For the details of the several routes, the
reader is of course referred to the chapter "Tours," at the end of the
Work.
That part of the island immediately opposite Hampshire is generally
well-wooded, with an easy descent to the shore--populous and busy, as
might be expected from the two considerable watering-places before
named, and several excellent harbors. But the south side (familiarly
called _the Back of the Island_,) being washed by the impetuous tides of
the ocean, presents a very different aspect, showing the resistless
progress of the waves:--and hence perpendicular cliffs of great
altitude, precipitous slopes constantly detaching large masses of earth
and rocks, and all the picturesque confusion produced by successive
landslips: here therefore the scenery is variously characterized by
dreary devastation, romantic beauty, or sublime splendor of effect. But
not so of _the Interior_ of the island, which presents the softer
pictures of pastoral and rural life: for ...
"Creation's mildest charms are here combined,"
enlivened by several splendid mansions, with their parks and groves. The
churches are numerous: some "embosomed soft in trees," and others
picturesquely seated on commanding knolls: and many of the highest hills
are adorned by a light-house or signal-station--some lofty obelisk,
tower, or mill; so that in every direction a conspicuous object gives an
interest and discriminative identity to those broad features of scenery,
which would otherwise be perfectly tame and monotonous.
* * * * *
_Situation, Extent, Climate, &c._
The Isle of Wight extends from east to west 23 miles, by about 14 from
north to south (being very nearly the figure of a lozenge),
circumscribes at least 60 miles, and contains upwards of 100,000 acres.
It is separated from the Hampshire coast by a strait called the SOLENT
SEA, varying from three to seven miles in width: and bounded by the
British Channel on the south--the nearest part of the French coast being
Cherbourg (18 leagues distant), which is said to have been seen from the
hills of Freshwater, &c. The extent of the English coast visible in
clear weather is above 100 miles, from Beachy Head in Sussex, to the
Isle of Portland in Dorset.
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