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Page 29
Here we enter upon the romantic scenery of the island. The village is
most delightfully rural, and though it has several roomy lodging-houses,
and two large hotels, still, from the bold variety of the ground, and
the many shrubberies and clumps of fine elm and ash trees with which it
is adorned, the dwellings are so hid from one another, that in almost
every point of view it has the pleasing appearance of being but a small
quiet hamlet. Except in the most exposed parts, vegetation flourishes
with uncommon luxuriance,--even choice exotics: we would point to the
Parsonage as an instance, enveloped in myrtles that stand the rigors of
winter without protection: indeed it may well be said, that almost every
cottage in this beautiful spot is surrounded ...
"With fragrant turf, and flowers as wild and fair,
As ever dressed a bank, or scented summer air."
But the crowning feature from which it derives its celebrity as one of
the chief curiosities of the island, is THE CHINE--a term that certainly
does not convey to a stranger any idea of the scene: it is a provincial
expression for a ravine or cleft in the cliffs of the shore, and of
which there are several along the coast, possessing a beauty or
sublimity that renders them highly interesting.
Having reached the beach, the visitor should take a short walk under the
towering sandrock precipices which range to the right and left for
several miles, before he enters the Chine. Nowhere on the coast of the
island is there a more charming stretch of shore,--for the sand is of a
cool dark color, _firm enough for wheel-carriages and horses to be used
by invalids_, and therefore proves equally alluring to the aged as to
the young, to enjoy salubrious exercise and recreation; it extends
northward to Sandown--about two miles; its monotony being broken by
occasional pools of sea-water, and a sprinkling of weed-covered rocks.
* * * * *
THE CHINE.
[Illustration: SHANKLIN CHINE, ISLE OF WIGHT. (_Descent to the Beach._)]
At the foot of the cliff stands a fisherman's cottage, which may attract
our attention from its picturesque situation.
The first view of the Chine from the beach is not the most favorable: as
the eye of the spectator is much too low to comprehend all the deep and
bold windings of the chasm, which contribute so essentially to its
romantic effect: but, gradually ascending by a narrow path, we soon open
a wider view, and should then pause, to contemplate it on every side. We
see suspended on the opposite slope, the humble ale house, resting
"Beneath an aged oak's embowering shade."
Just below it, a pretty rose-mantled cottage: and not far off, the gable
end of a gentleman's villa, so prominently seated near the margin of the
precipice, as to completely overlook the awful abyss. This view is
altogether picturesque and animated: for the foreground is exceedingly
bold,--and the prospect of Sandown Bay and the sublime cliffs of
Bembridge, give wonderful brilliancy and interest to the perspective.
As we advance, the scene becomes increasingly romantic, especially when
we are about half-way through it: for the deep sides of the chasm so
fold into one another as to exclude all prospect, and yet afford a great
diversity of coloring, light, and shade; the one side being beautifully
hung with indigenous trees or shrubs, and the uncovered portions of the
cliff of a glowing tint; while the opposite side presents the contrast
of a sombre hue, and is generally too steep to admit of much vegetation
ever gaining a permanent footing. Nor is the most critical eye annoyed
by the indications of unnecessary artificial improvements--which so
often tend to destroy the delightful robe of simplicity that such scenes
of Nature's creation wear, _when they are fortunate enough to escape the
infliction of man's refinements_.
"Still slowly climb the many-winding way,
And frequent turn to linger as you go."
We now approach the waterfall, at the HEAD OF THE CHINE; and should
there have been lately any heavy rains, it forms a noble cascade of
about 30 feet; but after a continuance of dry weather, it is reduced to
a scanty rill.
Ascending by a rude path cut in the side of the cliff, we pass through a
rustic wicket, and take our leave of this celebrated scene, which has no
doubt been formed by the slow operation of the streamlet in the course
of many ages, insignificant as it may appear to a casual visitor in the
middle of summer. The Chine of Blackgang is indebted for its origin to a
similar cause: and this of Shanklin would have gone on rapidly
increasing, had not the proprietor resorted to the aid of masonry,
draining, piling, &c. to arrest in some measure its further progress
towards the village.--See p. 33 of the "Vectis Scenery" for a full
account of the formation of the Chines.
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