Scientific American Supplement, No. 421, January 26, 1884 by Various


Main
- books.jibble.org



My Books
- IRC Hacks

Misc. Articles
- Meaning of Jibble
- M4 Su Doku
- Computer Scrapbooking
- Setting up Java
- Bootable Java
- Cookies in Java
- Dynamic Graphs
- Social Shakespeare

External Links
- Paul Mutton
- Jibble Photo Gallery
- Jibble Forums
- Google Landmarks
- Jibble Shop
- Free Books
- Intershot Ltd

books.jibble.org

Previous Page | Next Page

Page 16

These objections have led to the present recognized system--viz., 1st,
to place a water trap on the drain to cut off the sewer gases from the
foot of the soil pipe; and, next, to place an opening to the outer air
on the soil pipe between the trap and the house to secure efficient
disconnection between the sewer and the house. It is, moreover,
necessary to produce a movement of air and ventilation in the house
drain pipes to aerate the pipe and to oxidize any putrescible products
which may be in it. To do this, we must insure that a current of air
shall be continually passing through the drains; both an inlet and an
outlet for fresh air must be provided in the portions of the house
drain which are cut off from the main sewer, for without an inlet and
outlet there can be no efficient ventilation. This outlet and inlet
can be obtained in the following manner: In the first place, an outlet
may be formed by prolonging the soil pipe at its full diameter, and
with an open top to above the roof, in a position away from the
windows, skylights, or chimneys. And, secondly, an inlet may be
obtained by an opening into the house drain, on the dwelling side of
and close to the trap, by means of the disconnecting manhole or
branch-pipe before mentioned, or where necessary by carrying up the
inlet by means of a ventilating pipe to above the roof. The inlet
should be equal in area to the drain pipe, and not in any case less
than 4 in. in diameter. If it were not for appearance and the
difficulty of conveying the excreta without lodgments, an open gutter
would be preferable to a closed pipe in the house. This arrangement is
based on the principle that there should be no deposit in the house
drains. Therefore the utmost care should be taken to lay the house
drains in straight lines, both in plan and gradient, and to give the
adequate inclination.

The following are desirable conditions to observe in house drains: 1.
As to material of pipes. House drains should be made either of glazed
stoneware pipes or fireclay pipes with cement joints, or preferably of
cast iron pipes jointed with carefully-made lead joints, or with
turned joints and bored sockets. I say preferably of cast iron. In New
York the iron soilpipe, with joints made with lead, is now required by
the municipal regulations. It is a stronger pipe than a rainwater
pipe. The latter will often be found to have holes. A lead joint
cannot be made properly in a weak pipe, therefore the lead joint is to
some extent a guarantee of soundness. Lead pipes will be eaten away by
water containing free oxygen without carbonic acid, therefore pure
rainwater injures lead pipes. An excess of carbonic acid in water will
also eat away lead. You will find that in many cases pinholes appear
in a soilpipe, and when inside a house that allows sewer gas to pass
into the house. Moreover, lead is a soft material; it is subject to
indentations, to injury from nails, to sagging. A cast-iron pipe, when
coated with sewage matter, does not appear to be subject to decay; and
if of sufficient substance it is not liable to injury. When once well
fixed, it has no tendency to move. I would, therefore, advocate cast
iron in lieu of lead soilpipes. In fixing the soilpipe which is to
receive a water-closet, the trap should form part of the fixed pipe;
so that if there is any sinking the down pipe will not sink away from
the trap. It is, however, not sufficient to provide good material.
There is nothing which is more important in a sanitary point of view
than good workmanship in house drainage. In this matter, it is on
details that all depends. Just consider; the drain pipes under the
best conditions of aeration contain elements of danger, and those
pipes are composed of a number of parts, at the point of junction of
any one of which the poison may escape into the house. You thus
perceive how necessary it is first to reduce the poison to a minimum
by cutting off the sewer gas which might otherwise pass from the
street sewer to the house drain, and in the next place being most
careful in the workmanship of every part of your house drains and
soilpipes. Reduce your danger where you can by putting your pipes
outside. But you cannot always do that--for instance, at New York and
in Canada they would freeze.

All drain pipes should be proved to be watertight by plugging up the
lower end of the drain pipe and filling it with water. In no case
should a soilpipe be built inside a wall. It should be so placed as to
be always accessible. 2. The pipes should be generally 4 in. diameter.
In no instance need a drain pipe inside a house exceed 6 in. in
diameter. 3. Every drain of a house or building should be laid with
true gradients, in no case less than 1/100, but much steeper would be
preferable. When from circumstances the drain is laid at a smaller
inclination, a flush tank should be provided. They should be laid in
straight lines from point to point. At every change of direction there
should be reserved a means of access to the drain. 4. No drain should
be constructed so as to pass under a dwelling house, except in
particular cases when absolutely necessary. In such cases the pipe
should be of cast iron, and the length of drain laid under the house
should be laid perfectly straight--a means of access should be
provided at each end; it should have a free air current passing
through it from end to end, and a flush tank should be placed at the
upper end. 5. Every house drain should be arranged so as to be
flushed, and kept at all times free from deposit. 6. Every house drain
should be ventilated by at least two suitable openings, one at each
end, so as to afford a current of air through the drain, and no pipe
or opening should be used for ventilation unless the same be carried
upward without angles or horizontal lengths, and with tight joints.
The size of such pipes or openings should be fully equal to that of
the drain pipe ventilated. 7. The upper extremities of ventilating
pipes should be at a distance from any windows or openings, so that
there will be no danger of the escape of the foul air into the
interior of the house from such pipes. The soilpipe should terminate
at its lower end in a properly ventilating disconnecting trap, so that
a current of air would be constantly maintained through the pipe. 8.
No rainwater pipe and no overflow or waste pipe from any cistern or
rainwater tank, or from any sink (other than a slop sink for urine),
or from any bath or lavatory, should pass directly to the soilpipe;
but every such pipe should be disconnected therefrom by passing
through the wall to the outside of the house, and discharging with an
end open to the air. I may mention here that the drainage arrangements
of this Parkes Museum in which we are assembled were very defective
when the building was first taken. Mr. Rogers Field, one of the
committee, was requested to drain it properly, and it has been very
successfully accomplished.

Previous Page | Next Page


Books | Photos | Paul Mutton | Sat 6th Sep 2025, 22:07