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Page 29
But ouer all the Land, Iles, or other impediments, you may well see
them sixteene or eighteene leagues from their situation. Segocket is
the next; then Nufconcus, Pemmaquid, and Sagadahock. Vp this Riuer
where was the Westerne plantation are Aumuckcawgen, Kinnebeck, and
diuers others, where there is planted some corne fields. Along this
Riuer 40 or 50 miles, I saw nothing but great high cliffes of barren
Rocks, ouergrowne with wood: but where the Saluages dwelt there the
ground is exceeding fat & fertill. Westward of this Riuer, is the
Countrey of Aucocisco, in the bottome of a large deepe Bay, full of
runny great Iles, which diuides it into many good harbours. Sowocotuck
is the next, in the edge of a large sandy Bay, which bath many Rocks
and Iles, but few good harbours, but for Barks, I yet know. But all
this Coast to Pennobscot, and as farre I could see Eastward of it is
nothing but such high craggy Cliffy Rocks & stony Iles that I wondered
such great trees could growe vpon so hard foundations. It is a
Countrie rather to affright, then delight one. And how to describe a
more plaine spectacle of desolation or more barren I knowe not. Yet
the Sea there is the strangest fish-pond I euer saw; and those barren
Iles so furnished with good woods, springs, fruits, fish, and foule,
that it makes mee thinke though the Coast be rockie, and thus
affrightable; the Values, Plaines, and interior parts, may well
(notwithstanding) be verie fertile.
But there is no kingdome so fertile bath not some part barren: and New
England is great enough, to make many Kingdomes and Countries, were it
all inhabited. As you passe the Coast still Westward, Accominticus and
Passataquack are two conuenient harbors for small barks; and a good
Countrie, within their craggie cliffs. Angoam is the next; This place
might content a right curious iudgement: but there are many sands at
the entrance of the harbor: and the worst is, it is inbayed too farre
from the deepe Sea. Heere are many rising hilles, and on their tops
and descents many come fields, and delightfull groues. On the East, is
an Ile of two or three leagues in length; the one halfe, plaine morish
grasse fit for pasture, with many faire high groues of mulberrie trees
gardens: and there is also Okes, Pines, and other woods to make this
place an excellent habitation, beeing a good and safe harbor.
Naimkeek though it be more rockie ground (for Angoam is sandie) not
much inferior; neither for the harbor, nor any thing I could perceiue,
but the multitude of people. From hence doth stretch into the sea the
faire headland Tragabigzanda, fronted with three lies called the three
Turks heads: to the North of this, doth enter a great Bay, where wee
founde some habitations and corne fields: they report a great
Riuer[2], and at least thirtie habitations, doo possesse this
Countrie. But because the French had got their Trade, I had no leasure
to discouer it.
The Iles of Mattahunts are on the West side of this Bay, where are
many Iles, and questionlesse good harbors: and then the Countrie of
the Massachusets, which is the Paradise of all those parts: for, heere
are many lies all planted with corne; groues, mulberries, saluage
gardens, and good harbors: the Coast is for the most part, high clayie
sandie cliffs. The Sea Coast as you passe, shewes you all along large
corne fields, and great troupes of well proportioned people: but the
French hauing remained heere neere sixe weekes, left nothing, for vs
to take occasion to examine the inhabitants relations, viz, if there
be neer three thousand people vpon these Iles; and that the Riuer doth
pearce many daies iourneies the intralles of that Countrey. We found
the people in those parts verie kinde; but in their furie no lesse
valiant. For, vpon a quarrell wee had with one of them, hee onely with
three others crossed the harbor of Quonahassit to certaine rocks
whereby wee must passe; and there let flie their arrowes for our shot,
till we were out of danger.
Then come you to Accomack, an excellent good harbor, good land; and no
want of any thing, but industrious people. After much kindnesse, vpon
a small occasion, wee fought also with fortie or fiftie of those:
though some were hurt, and some slaine; yet within an houre after they
became friendes. Cape Cod is the next presents it selfe; which is
onely a headland of high hils of sand, ouergrowne with shrubbie pines,
hurts, and such trash; but an excellent harbor for all weathers. This
Cape is made by the maine Sea on the one side, and a great Bay on the
other in forme of a sickle: on it doth inhabit the people of Pawmet:
and in the bottome of the Bay, the people of Chawum.
[1] From Smith's "Description of New England," published in London
in 1616. Smith's exploration of New England was made after he had
become separated from the Jamestown colony, of which in 1608, he
had been president. He went there under an engagement with London
merchants to fish for cod, barter for furs and explore the country
for settlement. It was he who at the request of Prince Charles
named the country New England.
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