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Page 21
It would be tedious to follow the history of this old and venerated
stone, which was taken from the quarry 1550 years before the birth of
Christ; placed in Thebes; its removal; the journey to the Nile, and
down the Nile; thence to Cherbourg, and lastly its arrival in Paris on
the 23d of December, 1833--just one year before I escaped from slavery.
The obelisk was raised on the spot where it now stands, on the 25th of
October, 1836, in the presence of Louis Philippe and amid the greetings
of 160,000 persons.
Having missed my dinner, I crossed over to the Palais Royal, to a dining
saloon, and can assure you that a better dinner may be had there for
five francs, than can be got in New York for twice that sum, and
especially if the person who wants the dinner is a coloured man. I found
no prejudice against my complexion in the Palais Royal.
Many of the rooms in this once abode of Royalty, are most splendidly
furnished, and decorated with valuable pictures. The likenesses of
Madame de Stael, J.J. Rousseau, Cromwell, and Francis I., are among
them.
* * * * *
After several unsuccessful attempts to-day, in company with R.D. Webb,
Esq., to seek out the house where once resided the notorious
Robespierre, I was fortunate enough to find it, but not until I had
lost the company of my friend. The house is No. 396, Rue St. Honore,
opposite the Church of the Assumption. It stands back, and is reached by
entering a court. During the first revolution it was occupied by M.
Duplay, with whom Robespierre lodged. The room used by the great man of
the revolution, was pointed out to me. It is small, and the ceiling low,
with two windows looking out upon the court. The pin upon which the blue
coat once hung, is still in the wall. While standing there, I could
almost imagine that I saw the great "Incorruptible," sitting at the
small table composing those speeches which gave him so much power and
influence in the Convention and the Clubs.
Here, the disciple of Rousseau sat and planned how he should outdo his
enemies and hold on to his friends. From this room he went forth,
followed by his dog Brunt, to take his solitary walk in a favourite and
neighbouring field, or to the fiery discussions of the National
Convention. In the same street, is the house in which Madame Roland--one
of Robespierre's victims--resided.
A view of the residence of one of the master spirits of the French
revolution inclined me to search out more, and therefore I proceeded to
the old town, and after winding through several small streets--some of
them so narrow as not to admit more than one cab at a time--I found
myself in the Rue de L'Ecole de Medecine, and standing in front of house
No. 20. This was the residence, during the early days of the revolution,
of that bloodthirsty demon in human form, Marat.
I said to a butcher, whose shop was underneath, that I wanted to see La
Chambre de Marat. He called out to the woman of the house to know if I
could be admitted, and the reply was, that the room was used as a
sleeping apartment, and could not be seen.
As this was private property, my blue card of membership to the Congress
was not available. But after slipping a franc into the old lady's hand,
I was informed that the room was now ready. We entered a court and
ascended a flight of stairs, the entrance to which is on the right; then
crossing to the left, we were shown into a moderate-sized room on the
first floor, with two windows looking out upon a yard. Here it was where
the "Friend of the People" (as he styled himself,) sat and wrote those
articles that appeared daily in his journal, urging the people to "hang
the rich upon lamp posts." The place where the bath stood, in which he
was bathing at the time he was killed by Charlotte Corday, was pointed
out to us; and even something representing an old stain of blood was
shown as the place where he was laid when taken out of the bath. The
window, behind whose curtains the heroine hid, after she had plunged the
dagger into the heart of the man whom she thought was the cause of the
shedding of so much blood by the guillotine, was pointed out with a
seeming degree of pride by the old woman.
With my Guide Book in hand, I again went forth to "hunt after new
fancies."
* * * * *
After walking over the ground where the guillotine once stood, cutting
off its hundred and fifty heads per day, and then visiting the place
where some of the chief movers in that sanguinary revolution once
lived, I felt little disposed to sleep, when the time for it had
arrived. However, I was out this morning at an early hour, and on the
Champs Elysees; and again took a walk over the place where the
guillotine stood, when its fatal blade was sending so many unprepared
spirits into eternity. When standing here, you have the Palace of the
Tuileries on one side, the arch on the other; on a third, the classic
Madeleine; and on the fourth, the National Assembly. It caused my blood
to chill, the idea of being on the identical spot where the heads of
Louis XVI. and his Queen, after being cut off, were held up to satisfy
the blood-thirsty curiosity of the two hundred thousand persons that
were assembled on the Place de la Revolution. Here Royal blood flowed as
it never did before or since. The heads of patricians and plebians, were
thrown into the same basket, without any regard to birth or station.
Here Robespierre and Danton had stood again and again, and looked their
victims in the face as they ascended the scaffold; and here, these same
men had to mount the very scaffold that they had erected for others. I
wandered up the Seine, till I found myself looking at the statue of
Henry the IV. over the principal entrance of the Hotel de Ville. When we
take into account the connection of the Hotel de Ville with the
different revolutions, we must come to the conclusion, that it is one of
the most remarkable buildings in Paris. The room was pointed out where
Robespierre held his counsels, and from the windows of which he could
look out upon the Place de Greve, where the guillotine stood before its
removal to the Place de la Concorde. The room is large, with gilded
hangings, splendid old-fashioned chandeliers, and a chimney-piece with
fine antiquated carvings, that give it a venerable appearance. Here
Robespierre not only presided at the counsels that sent hundreds to the
guillotine; but from this same spot, he, with his brother St. Just and
others, were dragged before the Committee of Public Safety, and thence
to the guillotine, and justice and revenge satisfied.
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