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Page 13
PARIS, _August 23_.
After a pleasant sojourn of three weeks in Ireland, I took passage in
one of the mail steamers for Liverpool, and arriving there was soon on
the road to the metropolis. The passage from Dublin to Liverpool was an
agreeable one. The rough sea that we passed through on going to Ireland
had given way to a dead calm, and our noble little steamer, on quitting
the Dublin wharf, seemed to understand that she was to have it all her
own way. During the first part of the evening, the boat appeared to feel
her importance, and, darting through the water with majestic strides,
she left behind her a dark cloud of smoke suspended in the air like a
banner; while, far astern in the wake of the vessel, could be seen the
rippled waves sparkling in the rays of the moon, giving strength and
beauty to the splendour of the evening.
On reaching Liverpool, and partaking of a good breakfast, for which we
paid double price, we proceeded to the railway station, and were soon
going at a rate unknown to those accustomed to travel on one of our
American railways. At a little past two o'clock in the afternoon, we saw
in the distance the out-skirts of London. We could get but an indistinct
view, which had the appearance of one architectural mass, extending all
round to the horizon, and enveloped in a combination of fog and smoke;
and towering above every other object to be seen, was the dome of St.
Paul's Cathedral.
A few moments more, and we were safely seated in a "Hansom's Patent,"
and on our way to Hughes's--one of the politest men of the George Fox
stamp we have ever met. Here we found forty or fifty persons, who, like
ourselves, were bound for the Peace Congress. The Sturges, the Wighams,
the Richardsons, the Allens, the Thomases, and a host of others not less
distinguished as friends of peace, were of the company--many of whom I
had heard of, but none of whom I had ever seen; yet I was not an entire
stranger to many, especially to the abolitionists. In company with a
friend, I sallied forth after tea to take a view of the city. The
evening was fine--the dense fog and smoke having to some extent passed
away, left the stars shining brightly, while the gas light from the
street lamps and the brilliant shop windows gave it the appearance of
day-light in a new form. "What street is this?" we asked. "Cheapside,"
was the reply. The street was thronged, and every body seemed to be
going at a rapid rate, as if there was something of importance at the
end of the journey. Flying vehicles of every description passing each
other with a dangerous rapidity, men with lovely women at their sides,
children running about as if they had lost their parents--all gave a
brilliancy to the scene scarcely to be excelled. If one wished to get
jammed and pushed about, he need go no farther than Cheapside. But every
thing of the kind is done with a degree of propriety in London, that
would put the New Yorkers to blush. If you are run over in London, they
"beg your pardon;" if they run over you in New York, you are "laughed
at:" in London, if your hat is knocked off it is picked up and handed to
you; if, in New York, you must pick it up yourself. There is a lack of
good manners among Americans that is scarcely known or understood in
Europe. Our stay in the great metropolis gave us but little opportunity
of seeing much of the place; for in twenty-four hours after our arrival
we joined the rest of the delegates, and started on our visit to our
Gallic neighbours.
We assembled at the London Bridge Railway Station on Tuesday morning the
21st, a few minutes past nine, to the number of 600. The day was fine,
and every eye seemed to glow with enthusiasm. Besides the delegates,
there were probably not less than 600 more, who had come to see the
company start. We took our seats and appeared to be waiting for nothing
but the iron-horse to be fastened to the train, when all at once, we
were informed that we must go to the booking-office and change our
tickets. At this news every one appeared to be vexed. This caused great
trouble; for on returning to the train many persons got into the wrong
carriages; and several parties were separated from their friends, while
not a few were calling out at the top of their voices, "Where is my
wife? Where is my husband? Where is my luggage? Who's got my boy? Is
this the right train?" "What is that lady going to do with all these
children?" asked the guard. "Is she a delegate: are all the children
delegates?" In the carriage where I had taken my seat was a
good-looking lady who gave signs of being very much annoyed. "It is just
so when I am going anywhere: I never saw the like in my life," said she.
"I really wish I was at home again."
An hour had now elapsed, and we were still at the station. However, we
were soon on our way, and going at express speed. In passing through
Kent we enjoyed the scenery exceedingly, as the weather was altogether
in our favour; and the drapery which nature hung on the trees, in the
part through which we passed, was in all its gaiety. On our arrival at
Folkstone, we found three steamers in readiness to convey the party to
Boulogne. As soon as the train stopped, a general rush was made for the
steamers; and in a very short time the one in which I had embarked was
passing out of the harbour. The boat appeared to be conscious that we
were going on a holy mission, and seemed to be proud of her load. There
is nothing in this wide world so like a thing of life as a steamer, from
the breathing of her steam and smoke, the energy of her motion, and the
beauty of her shape; while the ease with which she is managed by the
command of a single voice, makes her appear as obedient as the horse is
to the rein.
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