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Page 6
On Cape Mugford island we now discovered more Esquimaux, who by signs
directed our course towards a convenient harbour, near their dwellings,
which we reached in safety.
The Esquimaux pitched their tents on shore, but we slept on board.
The situation of this place is remarkably beautiful. The strait is about
an English mile broad, and four or five in length. Both shores are lined
with precipitous rocks, which in many places rise to a tremendous
height, particularly on the Kaumayok side, from whence several
waterfalls rush into the sea, with a roar, which quite fills the air.
The singular appearance of these cataracts is greatly increased when
illuminated by the rising sun, the spray, exhibiting the most beautiful
prismatic colours. Below them huge masses of ice are formed, which seem
to lean against the sides of the rocks, and to be continually increasing
during the winter, but when melted by the power of a summer's sun, and
disengaged by their weight, are carried off by the tides, and help to
form floating ice-mountains. The coast lies S.W. by N.E.
26th. Being detained here by the state of the ice, and the weather fine
and warm, Brother Kmoch and Ogiksuk rowed across the straits to the
nearest great cataract, and were able, notwithstanding the steepness of
the ascent, to get pretty close to it. It falls fifty or sixty feet
perpendicular, and the noise is terrible. The spray ascending from it,
like the steam of a huge cauldron, wetted the travellers completely.
They amused themselves some time by rolling large stones into the fall,
which by its force were carried along towards the sea, down the sloping
torrent below. Our people meanwhile caught three seals, and made a
hearty meal, of which we also partook, hunger, on this occasion,
overcoming our dislike to seal's flesh. A sallad of scurvy-grass was
made for supper.
27th. We left this harbour about four A.M. with a favourable wind at
West, but as it soon died away, we took to our oars, and reached the
north point of Kaumayok, at the northern extremity of the strait. By an
observation taken by Brother Kohlmeister, this point is situated in 57�
59' N. latitude. Though calm, there was a great swell from the sea, and
the rolling of the boat affected our brave captain not a little, to the
diversion of the other Esquimaux. About two P.M. the wind shifted to the
N.W. By tacking we got to Kupperlik, about the middle of Kaumayok, but
having the skin-boat in tow, could not weather the point, and were at
length obliged to return to our former anchorage in the strait.
28th. The wind being North we could not proceed. We therefore ascended
the mountain of Cape Mugford. It is a barren rock, though here and there
a solitary plant or a tuft of moss clings to its steep sides, and is
difficult of access. The numerous waterfalls on the Kaumayok, which
still rose above us, were full in view, and we now discovered several
small lakes which supply them. Some of them fall from a great height
perpendicularly into the sea.
We could here discern the island of Okkak, to the S.W. to the East, the
boundless ocean, and to the N.E. three high, barren, and steep islands,
called Nennoktuts by the Esquimaux, (White mountains.)
CHAPTER III.
_Quit the Ikkerasak. Account of the Kaumayok Mountains, and of
Kangertluksoak. Public Worship on Sunday. Saeglek and its
Inhabitants described. The Missionaries visit the Esquimaux at
Kikkertarsoak._
June 29th.--We rose soon after two o'clock, and rowed out of the
Ikkerasak, with a fair wind. The sea was perfectly calm and smooth.
Brother Kmoch rowed in the small boat along the foot of the mountains of
Kaumayok, sometimes going on shore, while the large boat was making but
little way, keeping out at some distance, to avoid the rocks. The
outline of this chain of mountains exhibits the most fanciful figures.
At various points, the rocks descend abruptly into the sea, presenting
horrid precipices. The strand is covered with a black sand. At the
height of about fifty feet from the sea, the rocks have veins of red,
yellow, and green stone, running horizontally and parallel; and
sometimes in an undulated form. Above these, they present the appearance
of a magnificent colonade, or rather of buttresses, supporting a gothic
building, varying in height and thickness, and here and there
intersected by wide and deep chasms and glens, running far inland
between the mountains. Loose stones above, have in some places the
appearance of statues, and the superior region exhibits all kind of
grotesque shapes. It is by far the most singular and picturesque chain
of mountains on this coast. To the highest part of it we gave the name
of St. Pauls, as it is not unlike that cathedral when viewed at a
distance, with its dome and two towers.
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