Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh


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Page 13

The above address seemed to make a deep impression on the minds of all
present. One of their leaders, or captains, exclaimed with great
eagerness, in presence of them all: "I am determined to be converted to
Jesus." His name is _Onalik_. He afterwards called upon Brother
Kohlmeister, and inquired, whether it was the same, to which of the
three settlements he removed, as it was his firm determination to become
a true believer. Brother Kohlmeister answered: "That it was indifferent
where he lived, if he were only converted and became a child of God, and
an heir of life eternal." Another, named _Tullugaksoak_, made the same
declaration, and added: "That he would no longer live among the
heathen."

Though the very fickle disposition of the heathen Esquimaux, might cause
some doubts to arise in our minds, as to their putting these good
resolutions into practice, yet we hope, that the seed of the word of
God, sown in this place, may not have altogether fallen upon barren
ground.

In the evening, our people met in Jonathan's tent, and sang hymns.
Almost all the inhabitants were present. They afterwards spent a long
time in pleasant and edifying conversation. It may here be observed,
that the Esquimaux delight in singing and music. As to national songs,
they have nothing deserving of that name; and the various collectors of
these precious morsels in our day, would find their labour lost in
endeavouring to harmonize the incantations of their sorcerers and
witches, which more resemble the howlings of wolves and growlings of
bears, than any thing human. But though the hymn and psalm-tunes of the
Brethren's Church are mostly of antient construction, and, though rich
in harmony, have no airy melodies to make them easily understood by
unmusical ears, yet the Esquimaux soon learn to sing them correctly; and
the voices of the women are remarkably sweet and well-tuned. Brother
Kohlmeister having given one of the children a toy-flute, Paul took it,
and immediately picked out the proper stops in playing several
psalm-tunes upon it, as well as the imperfect state of the instrument
would admit. Brother Kmoch having taken a violin with him, the same
Esquimaux likewise took it up, and it was not long before he found out
the manner of producing the different notes.

18th. At 8 A.M. Brother Kohlmeister having delivered a
farewell-discourse to the Esquimaux, (during which they were much
affected), we took leave of these goodnatured people, and set sail with
a fair and strong West-wind, but met with much drift-ice at the entrance
of the bay. It made less way than our boat, and the wind becoming more
violent, we found ourselves in an unpleasant situation. After tacking
all day, and a great part of the night, the ice preventing our
proceeding, and the wind, our returning to our former station, we were
obliged to make for the Eastern point of the bay, where we at length
succeeded in gaining a small cove, and cast anchor.

Our situation was singular; the rocks rose in a semicircle around us,
towering perpendicularly to an amazing height, like an immense wall.

After a few hours stay, two Nachvak Esquimaux joined us, and prevailed
on Jonathan to return to the tents, but we had scarcely reached the
centre of the bay, before the violence of the wind drove us out to sea,
and we were compelled to push for the northern promontory, from which
all the ice had now retreated. Under the mountains we found shelter from
the wind, which had by this time risen to a storm. It was late, and as
it appeared dangerous to remain here, we rowed towards the point, but
there beheld, with terror, the raging of the sea and dashing of the
waves against the rocks, the spray flying like clouds into the air, and
returned into smooth water, where, however, we were long in finding a
place to anchor in. The night was spent quietly under shelter of the
high rocks. They form the base of mountains higher than the _Kiglapeyd_,
rise perpendicularly, in some places impending, with fragments,
apparently loose, hanging over their edge, and forming all kinds of
grotesque figures.

19th. At sun-rise we still saw and heard the storm which threatened us
with destruction, if we ventured to double the cape.

At nine the wind abated, and we set sail, got safe round the point, and
glided, with a gentle wind, into a broad, shallow bay, called Sangmiyok,
full both of hidden and visible rocks, in which we cast anchor about
five P.M. While Brother Kmoch superintended the concerns of the kitchen,
Brother Kohlmeister and Jonathan went on shore, and to the highest
mountain on the promontory. From the top of this mountain they could
plainly discern the four principal headlands between Cape Mugford and
Cape Chudleigh. The former situated in latitude 58� N. the latter in
61�. Between these are four promontories, in a line from S.E. to N.W.
The first is _Uivak_, at the entrance into Saeglek Bay, outside of which
a small island lies, in form of a pyramid or sugar-loaf. Next follow the
two forming Nachvak Bay, another _Uivak_ to the south of _Nennoktok_,
upon which we stood. The fourth is _Kakkeviak_, not far from Killinek,
or Cape Chudleigh, in form of a tent, called in the charts _Blackhead_.
_Nennoktok_ is called _False Blackhead_.

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Books | Photos | Paul Mutton | Sat 20th Dec 2025, 1:34