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Page 49
BOILED TONGUE.
Smoked tongue will be found much better than either fresh or pickled
tongues.
Soak it over night, after washing it. Put on in cold water, and boil
steadily four hours. Then take out; peel off the skin, and return to the
water to cool. Cut in _lengthwise_ slices, as this makes it tenderer. The
root of the tongue may be chopped very fine, and seasoned like deviled ham
(p. 265).
BOILED HAM.
Small hams are better in flavor and quality than large ones. A brush
should be kept to scrub them with, as it is impossible to get them clean
without it. Soak over-night in plenty of cold water. Next morning, scrape,
and trim off all the hard black parts, scrubbing it well. Put on to boil
in cold water. Let it heat very gradually. Allow half an hour to the
pound. When done, take from the water, skin, and return, letting it remain
till cold. Dot with spots of black pepper, and cover the knuckle with a
frill of white paper. It is much nicer, whether eaten hot or cold, if
covered with bread or cracker crumbs and browned in the oven. The fat is
useless, save for soap-grease. In carving, cut down in thin slices through
the middle. The knuckle can always be deviled (p. 265). A _leg of pork_
which has simply been corned is boiled in the same way as ham, soaking
over-night, and browning in the oven or not, as liked.
IRISH STEW.
This may be made of either beef or mutton, though mutton is generally
used. Reject all bones, and trim off all fat and gristle, reserving these
for the stock-pot. Cut the meat in small pieces, not over an inch square,
and cover with cold water. Skim carefully as it boils up, and see that the
water is kept at the same level by adding as it boils away. For two pounds
of meat allow two sliced onions, eight good-sized potatoes, two
teaspoonfuls of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cover closely, and
cook for two hours. Thicken the gravy with one tablespoonful of flour
stirred smooth in a little cold water, and serve very hot. The trimmings
from a fore-quarter of mutton will be enough for a stew, leaving a
well-shaped roast besides. If beef is used, add one medium-sized carrot
cut fine, and some sprigs of parsley. Such a stew would be called by a
French cook a _rago�t_, and can be made of any pieces of meat or poultry.
WHITE STEW, OR FRICASSEE.
Use _veal_ for this stew, allowing an hour to a pound of meat, and the
same proportions of salt and pepper as in the preceding receipt, adding a
saltspoonful of mace. Thicken, when done, with one heaping tablespoonful
of flour rubbed smooth with a piece of butter the size of an egg, and one
cup of hot milk added just at the last. A cauliflower nicely boiled, cut
up, and stewed with it a moment, is very nice.
This stew becomes a _pot-pie_ by making a nice biscuit-crust, as on p.
164; cutting it out in rounds, and laying in the kettle half an hour
before the stew is done. Cover closely, and do not turn them. Lay them,
when done, around the edge of the platter; pile the meat in the centre,
and pour over it the thickened gravy. Two beaten eggs are sometimes added,
and it is then called a _blanquette_ of veal.
BROWN STEW OR FRICASSEE.
To make these stews the meat is cut in small pieces, and browned on each
side in a little hot dripping; or, if preferred, quarter of a pound of
pork is cut in thin slices and fried crisp, the fat from it being used for
browning. Cover the meat with warm water when done. If a stew, any
vegetables liked can be added; a fricassee never containing them, having
only meat and a gravy, thickened with browned flour and seasoned in the
proportions already given. Part of a can of mushrooms may be used with a
beef stew, and a glass of wine added; this making a _rago�t with
mushrooms_. The countless receipts one sees in large cook-books for
rago�ts and fricassees are merely variations in the flavoring of simple
stews; and, after a little experimenting, any one can improvise her own,
remembering that the strongly-flavored vegetables (as carrots) belong
especially to dark meats, and the more delicate ones to light. Fresh pork
is sometimes used in a white fricassee, in which case a little powdered
sage is better than mace as a seasoning.
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