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Page 42
* * * * *
FISH.
The most essential point in choosing fish is their _freshness_, and this
is determined as follows: if the gills are red, the eyes prominent and
full, and the whole fish stiff, they are good; but if the eyes are sunken,
the gills pale, and the fish flabby, they are stale and unwholesome, and,
though often eaten in this condition, lack all the fine flavor of a
freshly-caught fish.
The fish being chosen, the greatest care is necessary in cleaning. If this
is properly done, one washing will be sufficient: the custom of allowing
fresh fish to lie in water after cleaning, destroys much of their flavor.
Fresh-water fish, especially the cat-fish, have often a muddy taste and
smell. To get rid of this, soak in water strongly salted; say, a cupful of
salt to a gallon of water, letting it heat gradually in this, and boiling
it for one minute; then drying it thoroughly before cooking.
All fish for boiling should be put into cold water, with the exception of
salmon, which loses its color unless put into boiling water. A
tablespoonful each of salt and vinegar to every two quarts of water
improves the flavor of all boiled fish, and also makes the flesh firmer.
Allow ten minutes to the pound after the fish begins to boil, and test
with a knitting-needle or sharp skewer. If it runs in easily, the fish can
be taken off. If a fish-kettle with strainer is used, the fish can be
lifted out without danger of breaking. If not, it should be thoroughly
dredged with flour, and served in a cloth kept for the purpose. In all
cases drain it perfectly, and send to table on a folded napkin laid upon
the platter.
In frying, fish should, like all fried articles, be _immersed_ in the hot
lard or drippings. Small fish can be fried whole; larger ones boned, and
cut in small pieces. If they are egged and crumbed, the _egg_ will form a
covering, hardening at once, and absolutely impervious to fat.
Pan-fish, as they are called,--flounders and small fish generally,--can
also be fried by rolling in Indian meal or flour, and browning in the fat
of salt pork.
Baking and broiling preserve the flavor most thoroughly.
Cold boiled fish can always be used, either by spicing as in the rule to
be given, or by warming again in a little butter and water. Cold fried or
broiled fish, can be put in a pan, and set in the oven till hot, this
requiring not over ten minutes; a longer time giving a strong, oily taste,
which spoils it. Plain boiled or mashed potatoes are always served with
fish where used as a dinner-course. If fish is boiled whole, do not cut
off either tail or head. The tail can be skewered in the mouth if liked;
or a large fish may be boiled in the shape of the letter S by threading a
trussing-needle, fastening a string around the head, then passing the
needle through the middle of the body, drawing the string tight and
fastening it around the tail.
BAKED FISH.
Bass, fresh shad, blue-fish, pickerel, &c., can be cooked in this way:--
See that the fish has been properly cleaned. Wash in salted water, and
wipe dry. For stuffing for a fish weighing from four to six pounds, take
four large crackers, or four ounces of bread-crumbs; quarter of a pound of
salt pork; one teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper; a
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, or a teaspoonful of thyme. Chop half the
pork fine, and mix with the crumbs and seasoning, using half a cup of hot
water to mix them, or, if preferred, a beaten egg. Put this dressing into
the body of the fish, which is then to be fastened together with a skewer.
Cut the remainder of the pork in narrow strips, and lay it in gashes cut
across the back of the fish about two inches apart. Dredge thickly with
flour, using about two tablespoonfuls. Put a tin baking-sheet in the
bottom of a pan, as without it the fish can not be easily taken up. Lay
the fish on this; pour a cup of boiling water into the pan, and bake in a
hot oven for one hour, basting it very often that the skin may not crack;
and, at the end of half an hour, dredging again with flour, repeating this
every ten minutes till the fish is done. If the water dries away, add
enough to preserve the original quantity. When the fish is done, slide it
carefully from the tin sheet on to a hot platter. Set the baking-pan on
top of the stove. Mix a teaspoonful of flour with quarter of a cup of cold
water, and stir into the boiling gravy. A tablespoonful of walnut or
mushroom catchup, or of Worcestershire sauce, may be added if liked.
_Serve very hot._
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