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Page 38
The meat used in stock, if boiled the full length of time given, has
parted with all its juices, and is therefore useless as food. If wanted
for hashes or croquettes, the portion needed should be taken out as soon
as tender, and a pint of the stock with it, to use as gravy. Strain, when
done, into a stone pot or crock kept for the purpose, and, when cold,
remove the cake of fat which will rise to the top. This fat, melted and
strained, serves for many purposes better than lard. If the stock is to be
kept several days, leave the fat on till ready to use it.
Fresh and cooked meat may be used together, and all remains of poultry or
game, and trimmings of chops and steaks, may be added, mutton being the
only meat which can not as well be used in combination; though even this,
by trimming off all the fat, may also be added. If it is intended to keep
the stock for some days, no vegetables should be added, as vegetable
juices ferment very easily. For clear soups they must be cooked with the
meat; and directions will be given under that head for amounts and
seasonings.
The secret of a savory soup lies in many flavors, none of which are
allowed to predominate; and, minutely as rules for such flavoring may be
given, only careful and frequent _tasting_ will insure success. Every
vegetable, spice, and sweet herb, curry-powders, catchups, sauces, dried
or fresh lemon-peel, can be used; and the simple stock, by the addition of
these various ingredients, becomes the myriad number of soups to be found
in the pages of great cooking manuals like Gouff�e's or Francatelli's.
_Brown soups_ are made by frying the meat or game used in them till
thoroughly brown on all sides, and using dark spices or sauces in their
seasoning.
_White soups_ are made with light meats, and often with the addition of
milk or cream.
_Pur�es_ are merely thick soups strained carefully before serving, and
made usually of some vegetable which thickens in boiling, as beans, pease,
&c, though there are several forms of fish _pur�es_ in which the
foundation is thickened milk, to which the fish is added, and the whole
then rubbed through a common sieve, if a regular pur�e-sieve is not to be
had.
Browned flour is often used for coloring, but does not thicken a soup, as,
in browning it, the starchy portion has been destroyed; and it will not
therefore mix, but settles at the bottom. Burned sugar or caramel makes a
better coloring, and also adds flavor. With clear soups grated cheese is
often served, either Parmesan or any rich cheese being used. Onions give a
better flavor if they are fried in a little butter or dripping before
using, and many professional cooks fry all soup vegetables lightly.
Cabbage and potatoes should be parboiled in a separate water before
adding to a soup. In using wine or catchup, add only at the last moment,
as boiling dissipates the flavor. Unless a thick vegetable soup is
desired, always strain into the tureen. Rice, sago, macaroni, or any
cereal may be used as thickening; the amounts required being found under
the different headings. Careful skimming, long boiling, and as careful
removing of fat, will secure a broth especially desirable as a food for
children and the old, but almost equally so for any age; while many
fragments, otherwise entirely useless, discover themselves as savory and
nutritious parts of the day's supply of food.
* * * * *
SOUPS.
BEEP SOUP WITH VEGETABLES.
For this very excellent soup take two quarts of stock prepared beforehand,
as already directed. If the stock is a jelly, as will usually be the case
in winter, an amount sufficient to fill a quart-measure can be diluted
with a pint of water, and will then be rich enough. Add to this one small
carrot, a turnip, a small parsnip, and two onions, all chopped fine; a
cupful of chopped cabbage; two tablespoonfuls of barley or rice; and
either six fresh tomatoes sliced, or a small can of sealed ones. Boil
gently at least one hour; then add one saltspoonful each of pepper,
curry-powder, and clove. If the stock has been salted properly, no more
will be needed; but tasting is essential to secure just the right flavors.
Boil a few minutes longer, and serve without straining.
This is an especially savory and hearty soup, and the combinations of
vegetables may be varied indefinitely. A cup of chopped celery is an
exceedingly nice addition, or, if this is not to be had, a teaspoonful of
celery salt, or a saltspoonful of celery-seed. A lemon may also be sliced
thin, and added at the last. Where tomatoes are used, a little sugar is
always an improvement; in this case an even tablespoonful being
sufficient. If a thicker broth is desired, one heaped tablespoonful of
corn-starch or flour may be first dissolved in a little cold water; then a
cup of the hot broth gradually mixed with it, and the whole added to the
soup and boiled for five minutes.
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