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Page 56
Farming on a small scale had been attempted here by my predecessor,
and the result was such as to induce more extensive operations. I
received orders, therefore, to clear land, sow and plant, forthwith.
These orders were in part carried into effect in the autumn. Four
acres of land were put in a condition to receive seed, and about the
same quantity at Fort Alexandria. Seed was ordered from the Columbia,
and handmills to grind our grain. Pancakes and hot rolls were
thenceforward to be the order of the day; Babine salmon and dog's
flesh were to be sent--"to Coventry!" The spring, however, brought
with it but poor prospects for pancakes; the season was late beyond
all precedent; the fields were not sown until the 5th of May; they,
nevertheless, promised well for some time, but cold weather ensued,
and continued so long that the crops could not recover before the
autumn frosts set in, and thus our hopes were blasted. The farm at
Alexandria had not much better success, owing to the neglect of the
good people themselves;--not having enclosed their fields, the cattle
destroyed the greater part of the crops. Here, however,
notwithstanding the failure of our grain crops, we had abundance of
vegetables and a large stock of cattle, so that our fare was far
superior to that of the other _exiles_ in the district.
Mr. Ogden returned from Fort Vancouver about the usual time, and was
mortified to find that our grand agricultural experiment had so
completely failed. He, however, had brought a supply of flour
sufficient to afford each commander of posts a couple of bags, and
thus the inconvenience arising from our disappointment was, in some
degree, obviated.
From his first arrival amongst us, Mr. Ogden evinced the most earnest
desire to ameliorate the condition of his subordinates in this
wretched district, and all felt grateful to him for his benevolent
intentions. To Mr. Dease, however, the praise is due of having
introduced this new order of things: he it was who first introduced
cattle from Fort Vancouver; it was he who first introduced farming,
and recommended it to others.
Late in autumn, the natives being all about the post, the dread
influenza, that had made such fearful havoc among the Indians in other
quarters, broke out here also. The poor creatures had a great deal of
confidence in my medical skill, from the circumstance of my having
saved the life of a boy who had eaten some poisonous root, when
despaired of by their own mountebanks.
On the present occasion I tried my skill on one of the subjects best
able to bear my experiments, by administering a strong emetic and
purge, and causing him afterwards to drink a decoction of mint. He was
cured, and I afterwards prescribed the same medicine to many others
with a like success; so that my reputation as a disciple of �sculapius
became firmly established.
Having last year applied to the Governor for permission to visit
head-quarters, for a purpose which will be noticed hereafter, I
received a favourable answer, and, in the month of February, set off
for the dep�t of the district preparatory to my departure, where I
remained for a month in company with Mr. Ogden and several
fellow-scribes.
CHAPTER XXI.
CLIMATE OF NEW CALEDONIA--SCENERY--NATURAL
PRODUCTIONS--ANIMALS--FISHES--NATIVES--THEIR MANNERS AND
CUSTOMS--DUELLING--GAMBLING--LICENTIOUSNESS--LANGUAGE.
Ere I proceed on my long journey, I must pause for a little to
describe more particularly the country, which I am about to quit,
perhaps for ever, and the manners of its savage inhabitants. The
climate of New Caledonia is exceedingly variable at all seasons of the
year. I have experienced at Stuart's Lake, in the month of July, every
possible change of weather within twelve hours; frost in the morning,
scorching heat at noon; then rain, hail, snow. The winter season is
subject to the same vicissitudes, though not in so extreme a degree:
some years it continues mild throughout. These vicissitudes may, I
think, be ascribed to local causes--proximity to, or distance from the
glaciers of the Rocky Mountains, the direction of the winds, the
aspect of the place, &c. Fort St. James is so situated as to be
completely exposed to the north-east wind, which wafts on its wings
the freezing vapours of the glaciers. The instant the wind shifts to
this quarter, a change of temperature is felt; and when it continues
to blow for a few hours, it becomes so cold that, even in midsummer,
small ponds are frozen over. The surrounding country is mountainous
and rocky.
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