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Page 45
We reached Cumberland House on the 8th. Here I was cheered by the
sight of extensive corn-fields, horned cattle, pigs and poultry, which
gave the place more the appearance of a farm in the civilized world,
than of a trading post in the far North-West; and I could not help
envying the happy lot of its tenant, and contrasting it with my own,
which led me to the wilds of New Caledonia--to fare like a dog,
without knowing how long my exile might be protracted.
We arrived at the post of Isle � la Crosse, where we were detained a
day in consequence of bad weather. This post is also surrounded by
cultivated fields, and I observed a few cattle; but the voice of the
grunter was not heard.
The Indians who frequent this post are chiefly Chippeweyans, with a
few families of Crees. The former differ in features, language, and
manners from any I had yet seen. Their face is of a peculiar mould,
broad; the cheekbone remarkably prominent, chin small, mouth wide,
with thick lips, the upper covered with beard; the body strongly built
and muscular. They appear destitute of the amiable qualities which
characterise the Crees. Whenever we met any of them on our route, and
asked for fish or meat, "Budt hoola,"[1] was the invariable answer; yet
no Indians were ever more importunate than they in begging for
tobacco. On the contrary, when we fell in with Crees, they allowed us
to help ourselves freely, and were delighted to see us do so,
receiving thankfully whatever we gave them in return. The features of
the Crees are not so strongly marked as those of the Sauteux, although
they are a kindred people; yet they are as easily distinguishable from
each other, as an Englishman from a Frenchman.
[1] There is none.
We left Isle � la Crosse on the 12th, and without meeting with any
adventure worthy of notice, reached the end of Portage la Loche about
two o'clock P.M. of the following day, with canoe and baggage. In
this, as in every other part of their territories, the Company use
boats for the transport of property; but by a very judicious
arrangement, much time and labour are saved at this portage, which is
said to be twelve miles in length. Boats are placed at the upper and
lower ends, so that the men have only to carry across the property,
which, in truth, of itself is a sufficiently laborious operation for
human beings. The people from the district of McKenzie's River come
thus far with their returns, and receive their outfit in boats manned
by half-breeds, who are hired at Red River for the trip.
The prospect which the surrounding country presents from the upper end
of the portage is very striking; and the more so from the sudden
manner in which it bursts upon the view. You suddenly arrive at the
summit of a remarkably steep hill, where, on looking around, the first
object that attracts attention is a beautiful green hill standing on
the opposite side of the deep glen, through which the clear Water
River flows, forming the most prominent feature of an extensive range,
cut up by deep ravines, whose sides are clothed with wood, presenting
already all the beautiful variety of their autumnal hues; while, at
intervals, a glimpse was caught of the river meandering through the
valley. In former times these hills were covered with herds of
buffaloes, but not one is to be seen now.
We once more proceeded down the stream, and arrived at Athabasca on
the 21st of August, where we found Dr. King, who had been delayed some
days repairing his boats; Capt. Back having proceeded onwards in a
light canoe to fix on a winter residence.
Fort Chippeweyan was, in the time of the North-West Company, next in
importance to Fort William. Besides having several detached posts
depending immediately upon itself, and carrying on a very extensive
trade with the Chippeweyans, (the best hunters in the Indian country,)
it served as dep�t for the districts of McKenzie's River, and Peace
River.
The trade of this district, although it bears no comparison to that of
former times, is yet pretty extensive. It is still the dep�t for Peace
River, and commands the trade with the Chippeweyans. Trade is carried
on in this quarter solely by barter, which secures the Company from
loss, and is apparently attended with no inconvenience to the natives,
who used formerly to take their supplies on credit.
Beaver is the standard according to which all other furs are rated; so
many martens, so many foxes, &c., equal to one beaver. The trader, on
receiving the Indian's hunt, proceeds to reckon it up according to
this rule, giving the Indian a quill for each beaver; these quills are
again exchanged at the counter for whatever articles he wants. The
people of this post subsist entirely on the produce of the country,
fish, flesh, and fowl, of which there is the greatest abundance. Both
soil and climate are said to be unfavourable to the cultivation of
grain or vegetables; the attempt is made, however, and sometimes with
success.
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