Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in the Hudson's Bay Territory by John M'lean


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Page 40

Several of our men having already deserted, we encamped upon islands,
when they could be found, or kept watch on the mainland. Our hour of
departure was three o'clock, A.M.; when the weather permitted we
breakfasted at seven, dined at one or two o'clock, P.M., and encamped
at sunset. In calm weather the canoes went abreast, singing in chorus
and keeping time with the paddles. All was then gaiety, and, to
appearance, happiness; but this is one of those bright spots in a
voyageur's life which are few and far between.

We reached Fort Coulonge on the 3d, and it being late, I took up my
quarters with my worthy old bourgeois, Mr. S. Here we received some
additional supplies of provisions for the crews and passengers. We
arrived at Lac des Allumettes on the 5th, where I put ashore merely to
say _bon jour_ to an old acquaintance. We encamped rather early this
evening, to allow the men a little extra rest, on account of the
laborious duty they had performed for some days before. Next day, when
ascending the rapid of Roche Capitaine, the canoe in which I was
passenger came in violent contact with another; but mine only
sustained damage. The bow being stove in, the canoe began to fill; we
however gained the shore, to which fortunately we were close, at a
leap, and lost no time in discharging the cargo. Drying the goods and
repairing the canoe occupied us a good part of the day.

We reached the Forks of Mattawin on the 8th, where we found a small
outpost belonging to the Fort Coulonge district, recently established
for the purpose of securing the hunts of the Indians of this quarter,
who were in the habit of trading with shanty men. Being no longer
under any apprehensions of the men deserting, we now discontinued the
watch and slept in comfort.

The passage of the Little River was effected with much toil and
difficulty, from the shallowness of the water. We entered Lake
Nipissing on the 10th; descended French River, a rapid and dangerous
stream, without accident, and entered Lake Huron on the morning of the
12th. The guide pointed out to me a place near the mouth of the river
where the Indians used to waylay the canoes on their passage to and
from the interior; a sort of rude breastwork still marks the spot.
After much destruction of life and property by the savages, they were
eventually caught in their own toil; the voyageurs, instead of
descending the river at this place, passed by land, and coming
unawares on the Indians killed them all.

We reached the post of the Cloche early on the 13th, and spent two
hours in the company of Mr. McB----u, who entertained us most kindly;
and on the 14th looked in at Mississaga post, an establishment which
appeared to possess but few attractions as a place of residence;
consisting of a few miserable log buildings, surrounded by a number of
pine-bark wigwams, the temporary residence of the natives; several of
whom came reeling into the house after our arrival, there being an
opposition party there.

These Indians were, without comparison, the most uncouth,
savage-looking beings I ever beheld; mouth from ear to ear,
cheek-bones remarkably high, low projecting forehead, hair like a
horse's mane, and eyes red and swollen by continual intoxication.
American whisky had no doubt contributed to increase their natural
deformity.

After leaving this post we had a strong breeze of adverse wind for the
remainder of the day, and encamped in consequence earlier than usual.
On the following morning we were very early roused from our slumbers
by the call of "Canot � l�ge," (light canoe). Our beds were tied up,
tents packed, canoes launched and loaded in an instant; and we set off
in pursuit of the mail, which we overtook at breakfast time, and found
Mr. G. K----th in charge, who had just returned from England, and was
now proceeding to assume the charge of Lake Superior district. Mr.
K----th exchanged some of his men, who were found incapable of
performing light canoe duty, for some of our best; an arrangement that
did not appear to please our guide much.

The duty which the crew of a light canoe have to perform is laborious
in the extreme, and requires men of the greatest strength and vigour
to stand it. They are never allowed to remain more than four hours
ashore by night, often only two or three; during the day they are
constantly urged on by the guide or person in command, and never cease
paddling, unless during the few moments required to exchange seats, or
while they take their hasty meals ashore. They are liberally plied
with grog, well paid, and well fed, and seldom quit the service until
it is hinted to them that the duty is become too hard for them. A
light canoe-man considers it quite a degradation to be employed in
loaded craft.

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Books | Photos | Paul Mutton | Fri 16th Jan 2026, 8:17